One of the most cherished experiences of dog ownership is enjoying a peaceful walk together. Yet, this joy often turns into a frustrating struggle when your dog constantly pulls, transforming a leisurely stroll into an unwanted tug-of-war. If you’re tired of walks feeling like a strenuous workout, it’s time to teach your dog the essential skill of loose leash walking. This guide will show you how to train your dog to not pull on leash, ensuring a more pleasant experience for both of you.
Learning not to pull on the leash is one of the more challenging behaviors for dogs to master, as they aren’t born with an innate understanding of polite walking etiquette. As a seasoned dog trainer, I frequently receive requests for help with this common issue. I completely understand the immense frustration that comes with being pulled down the street. It shouldn’t feel like your arm is being wrenched off.
Walking your dog should be a mutually enjoyable time, a chance to bond and explore together. The good news is that with patience and consistent positive reinforcement, every dog can learn to be an enjoyable walking partner. You can absolutely teach your dog not to pull how to stop dog from dragging me using humane and positive training methods. I strongly advocate against using choke chains, shock collars, or any other aversive tools. If you wouldn’t use something on a child, it shouldn’t be used on your dog.
There’s a persistent myth that dogs pull on the leash to assert dominance or control. This is entirely untrue. Pulling simply indicates that your dog hasn’t learned polite boundaries and is currently more captivated by the environment than by you. This is perfectly normal! Our role as owners is to guide them and establish clear expectations for walks. Unfortunately, these misconceptions have led many owners to lose patience and even punish their dogs for pulling. I’ve witnessed trainers suggest punishments ranging from mildly aversive techniques to outright abuse. As a positive trainer, I oppose all such methods. My extensive experience has shown that you can, without a doubt, teach your dog to walk politely using only positive training methods.
This article is intentionally thorough, designed to be a comprehensive resource. Many online articles offer quick “5 steps to stop pulling,” but often lack the depth needed for real-world application. I aim to provide a truly helpful guide for dog owners seeking to enjoy harmonious walks with their companions. I strongly recommend reading the entire article, as each section builds upon the last to help you effectively address your dog’s pulling behavior.
Why Does My Dog Pull on Leash?
Contrary to popular belief, your dog pulling on the leash has nothing to do with dominance, control, or being “naughty.” The actual reasons are far simpler:
1. Not Enough Exercise
Many dogs don’t get enough exercise for their breed, resulting in an abundance of pent-up energy. For some, their daily 30-minute walk is their only opportunity for physical activity, which is often insufficient. It’s unrealistic to expect your dog to walk calmly by your side if they’re bursting with energy. For successful loose leash training, ensure your dog is adequately tired beforehand. Consider off-leash running, playing fetch with a ball or frisbee, or visiting a dog park. If you’re short on time, a dog walker or doggy daycare can help. Providing adequate exercise is a fundamental aspect of responsible dog ownership. Research your dog’s breed to understand and meet their specific energy requirements before expecting them to perform for you.
Sled dogs pulling on a leash with enthusiasm
2. Humans Are Slow
Most dogs naturally walk faster than their human companions. Imagine walking a turtle; eventually, you’d likely grow impatient and want to quicken the pace. To our dogs, we are often the “turtle.” It’s important to acknowledge that slowing down their natural pace is difficult for dogs and feels unnatural. While it requires effort on their part, they can absolutely learn to adapt.
3. Outside Smells Amazing
Let’s be honest: outside environments are incredibly distracting for dogs. Consider this analogy: if you’re working at your desk and a captivating TV show is playing nearby, wouldn’t you be tempted to watch it instead of focusing on work? For dogs, the sights and, especially, the smells of the outdoors are equally enticing during the “job” of walking politely.
Dogs possess an average of 50 times more scent receptors and 40 times more brain space dedicated to processing smells than humans. They can detect odors diluted to one to two parts per trillion – a sensory experience we can barely comprehend. What appears to us as a simple patch of grass is, to a dog, a blissful symphony of scents. If your dog has been pulling you towards interesting smells for months or years, understand that this behavior has been consistently rewarded by the opportunity to sniff. Changing this ingrained habit will require time and new, more desirable rewards.
How Do Dogs Learn?
In simple terms, there are two primary approaches to dog training:
- Reward desired behaviors: This involves giving a treat or praise when your dog performs a desired action, such as walking nicely or making eye contact. This encourages them to repeat the behavior.
- Punish undesired behaviors: This method attempts to stop behaviors using tools like prong collars or shock collars when the dog pulls.
As a positive reinforcement trainer, I believe it’s our responsibility to teach our dogs what we want from them. I strongly disagree with training methods that rely on punishing a dog until they accidentally guess the correct behavior. Imagine if your parents or boss expected you to learn that way—how stressful would that be? It is your duty to clearly communicate your expectations to your dog. Punishment-based techniques primarily teach dogs what not to do, while positive training empowers them by teaching them what to do.
If you aim to train your dog to not pull on leash, you must begin in an environment where they can succeed. Why? Because you need opportunities to reward them! For many dogs, this means starting loose leash training inside your home, where distractions are minimal.
It can be challenging to grasp how the training environment impacts your dog’s ability to perform. Consider this: do you know your ABCs? Of course. If I asked you to recite them silently, you could easily do so. This is akin to asking your dog to heel indoors – minimal distraction. Now, if I asked you to recite them to your spouse or child, it might be slightly awkward but still manageable. This is comparable to asking your dog to heel in your backyard, a familiar but slightly more distracting setting. Finally, imagine being placed on a stage before 10,000 people and asked to sing your ABCs into a microphone. You’d likely be overwhelmed and forget everything. This illustrates the challenge of asking your dog to walk politely in a highly distracting environment.
Dog sniffing a patch of grass intently
How stressed would you feel if you were threatened with punishment for not singing your ABCs perfectly in that overwhelming scenario? That’s the equivalent of punishing your dog for failing to “perform” in a situation for which they haven’t been adequately prepared. It’s unfair and an ineffective training approach. Do not punish your dog for having an emotional response or becoming overwhelmed in a more challenging setting! Furthermore, it’s not effective positive training to place your dog in an overly stimulating environment where they’re too overwhelmed to learn, then attempt to control them solely with a treat.
For positive reinforcement to work, you must start in an environment where your dog can succeed. Create opportunities for praise and rewards so they can learn your expectations. You know how to say the ABCs, but the context of where you’re asked to say them dramatically impacts your success. Dogs are no different. Gradually increase the difficulty and allow your dog time to solidify their skills. They can learn to walk nicely in highly distracting environments, but this takes time and incremental progress.
3 Things to Teach Your Dog BEFORE You Start Loose Leash Walking
Warning: Do not skip these foundational skills and jump directly into loose leash training! These skills will significantly help your dog develop impulse control and learn the immense value of focusing on you. When you eventually begin loose leash walking in more distracting settings, these pre-requisite skills will be invaluable for maintaining your dog’s focus. (A focused, engaged dog is far less likely to pull!) Mastering these skills upfront will save you frustration and sore arms.
Dog sitting calmly, looking up at its owner, demonstrating focus
I’ve included a brief explanation of why each skill is necessary below. I strongly recommend practicing these for at least a few days before initiating any loose leash walking training. Get your dog proficient in them!
Sit
“Sit” is a fundamental obedience command that every dog should know. It’s incredibly useful for teaching loose leash walking as a transition point (e.g., between “heel” and “okay”) or as a mental break in distracting environments. It provides a clear, calm action for your dog to perform. This is one of the easiest commands to teach a dog.
Focus
Every dog should learn the “focus” command, which teaches them to make eye contact with you on cue. Teaching a dog to check in with you is a crucial building block for more advanced obedience skills and strengthens your overall bond. “Focus” teaches your dog that wonderful things happen when they look at you, enhancing communication. In distracting settings, a well-trained “focus” command can help calm your dog and redirect their attention back to you.
Leave It
“Leave it” is an essential and potentially life-saving skill. It’s extremely valuable during distraction training (like loose leash walking), but it can also prevent your dog from ingesting something dangerous. Puppies and dogs are notorious for attempting to gobble up random items they find on the ground. A solid “leave it” command allows you to communicate that your dog should ignore something without physical intervention. It’s a promise to your dog that if they refrain from grabbing or engaging with an interesting item, they will receive an even better reward instead.
The Difference Between Heeling and Loose Leash Walking
The concept of “loose leash walking” can be interpreted differently by various trainers. In my approach, I distinguish between two distinct ways of walking a dog: a perfect heel or a loose leash walk. I advocate for using and teaching both!
Heeling
To me, heeling means the dog walks precisely at your side, without falling behind or moving ahead of your knee. I personally teach dogs to walk on my left side. My expectations and boundaries for heeling are much stricter than for loose leash walking. I want the dog to maintain an exact position at my left side, matching my pace. During a heel, I do not permit sniff breaks or greetings with other dogs or people.
If this sounds incredibly strict, you’re right – it is! Teaching your dog to heel is an excellent way to establish clear boundaries and expectations during the learning phase. It has very explicit rules that dogs often grasp quickly. While teaching your dog to not pull on leash, I suggest incorporating “heel” approximately 50% of the time. This provides unambiguous rules for your dog. Once fully trained, I recommend maintaining a strict heel about 10% of the time or less. It’s a valuable skill for navigating busy sidewalks, crowded areas, or other highly distracting environments where your dog needs to be “on best behavior.” It’s too restrictive for continuous use, but it’s a crucial skill to learn and maintain.
I also firmly believe that walks should be enjoyable for the dog! As your dog becomes more proficient, you should increase the amount of time spent in loose leash walking rather than a perfect heel. Loose leash walking grants them the freedom to explore, sniff, and simply “be a dog.” Remember, the walk should be as much for your dog’s enjoyment as it is for yours.
Loose Leash Walking
Once a dog is trained to heel, I suggest transitioning to loose leash walking for the majority of your walks. I recommend using a 6-foot leash for walks. This length provides enough freedom for your dog to explore and sniff. Let them embrace their natural dog behaviors! However, I strongly advise against retractable leashes due to safety concerns and inconsistent training feedback.
So, what exactly is loose leash walking? I define it as my dog’s ability to move freely within the confines of a 6-foot leash without any tension or pulling. If I can’t easily hold the leash with one finger, it’s not truly loose leash walking. There should be no pressure on the leash whatsoever. If your dog wants to sniff politely during a loose leash walk, stop and allow them! While pulling is never permitted, loose leash walking offers the freedom to explore. Sniffing is a healthy and natural activity for a dog. If a sniff lasts an extended period and I wish to continue walking, I expect my dog to rejoin me with just a verbal cue. Neither you nor your dog should be pulling each other.
Training Your Dog to Heel and Loose Leash Walk Using Positive Reinforcement
Teaching your dog to heel or loose leash walk requires patience, but the rewards are immense. I take my dog, Neirah, everywhere with me. She walks so beautifully that I rarely have to consciously manage the leash. Being able to relax and get lost in your thoughts on a walk is truly wonderful, and I sincerely believe you and your dog can achieve this! I have helped countless dog owners successfully train their dogs to not pull. Every dog has the capacity to walk politely on a leash; they just need the time and consistent guidance to learn.
You want to build a strong association that positive things happen to your dog when they are close to you and paying attention during walks. We use treats to condition this behavior. Eventually, treats can be gradually phased out (or at least dramatically reduced), and your dog will continue to walk nicely out of habit and desire. I rarely carry treats on walks with my dog anymore, yet she consistently chooses to check in with me.
Important Things to Know About Teaching Loose Leash Walking
Gradual Distraction Progression: We will slowly increase the level of distraction. It may take a few weeks before you can take your dog on a “real walk” as opposed to a structured training walk. During this initial period, ensure your dog gets sufficient exercise through fetch, dog parks, or backyard play. Expecting your dog to walk nicely without adequate exercise is unfair to them.
Consistent No-Pull Policy: From the very first day you commit to teaching your dog not to pull, this behavior must never be rewarded. This means pulling never results in them getting what they want. Remember, if they pull you to sniff something, that scent is a reward for the pulling action. You must be completely committed to stopping pulling rather than occasionally giving in. If you cave when your dog pulls hard enough, you’re only teaching them to pull even harder next time. From day one of training, pulling can never lead to your dog getting their desired outcome. Dogs learn best with consistent training! Reinforce that good things happen when they walk politely.
Start in a Successful Environment: It’s crucial to begin training in an environment where your dog can succeed. You need opportunities to reward your dog for doing things right. I always recommend starting the first session inside your house, where distractions are minimal.
Reward Lavishly: You are asking your dog to learn a difficult skill, so reward their efforts generously! If you feel like a “Pez dispenser” with treats while teaching loose leash walking, you are doing it correctly! Ensure you have a good supply of small, high-value treats in your treat bag for every session (I typically pre-break them into tiny pieces). Use treats to clearly communicate when your dog is doing a great job! You can prevent overfeeding by slightly reducing their meal portions during intensive training periods. The treats will eventually be tapered off, but don’t phase them out too quickly!
A hand reaching into a treat bag, ready to reward a dog
What You’ll Need:
- A comfortable, well-fitting harness or flat collar (avoiding aversive tools).
- A standard 6-foot leash (no retractables).
- High-value treats your dog absolutely loves.
- A treat pouch or bag to keep treats easily accessible.
Teaching Your Dog to Heel
Get Yourself Ready: Begin with your dog on leash in a sit position on your left side. Hold a small supply of treats in your left hand and the leash in your right. Remember to deliver treats with your left hand to prevent your dog from learning to cut in front of you for a reward. The leash should always remain loose! Your dog will be learning to regulate their pace, rather than being held in place by you.
Choose a Movement Phrase: Decide on a clear verbal cue you will use to ask your dog to start moving. I personally use “Let’s go!”, but feel free to choose any phrase that suits you.
Get Your Dog’s Attention: Ask your dog to “focus” on you, and reward them with a treat when they make eye contact.
Begin: Say your chosen movement phrase (e.g., “Let’s go!”) and use the treat in your left hand as a lure, guiding it just in front of your dog’s nose to keep them precisely at your side. Take 3 steps with them by your side, then immediately reward with a treat. Once you sense your dog is beginning to understand the game, start adding the word “heel” as you initiate walking.
Practice: Dedicate ample time to practicing this! Gradually work up to being able to take 10 steps in a perfect heel. Once your dog consistently performs 10 steps successfully multiple times in a row, they are likely ready to move your training outside to your yard.
Every time you increase the distraction level, you need to take a step back in difficulty.
Move Outside: Remember, you want your dog to be successful! Since you’ve moved to an outdoor environment, revert to luring for 3 steps before offering a treat. As this becomes easy for your dog, slowly increase to 10 steps again.
Phase Out the Lure: Once your dog has mastered 10 steps in the yard, it’s time to stop using the treat as a continuous lure in front of their nose! Reward your dog for sitting next to you, then say “Let’s go!” followed by “heel.” Slowly try to increase the number of steps you can take with your dog maintaining a perfect heel position. If you sense your dog is losing focus, try talking to them cheerfully to regain their attention. You want to reward your dog for checking in with you, so offer a treat every time they make eye contact. Aim to work up to keeping your dog in a heel for a full minute between treats.
Practice! If your dog is accustomed to pulling, you’ll likely need to spend several days practicing heeling in your yard. They are learning a brand new skill. Remember to progress slowly! Behavioral change is hard and takes time. I suggest keeping training sessions short (around 20 minutes, twice a day) to prevent both you and your dog from becoming overwhelmed or frustrated.
If your dog attempts to sniff or pulls sideways while heeling, calmly say “leave it” and apply the slightest amount of leash pressure (as you practiced in any previous leash pressure training) to gently guide them back to your side. Reward them immediately every time they return to your side. Remember, pulling no longer gets your dog what they want.
If your dog tries to pull ahead of you, say “Let’s go!” and immediately turn to walk in the opposite direction. Reward them generously when they follow you! This teaches your dog that they need to stay by your side and pay attention. Your dog will learn that you might change direction at any second, and good things happen when they stick with you.
I do not recommend introducing loose leash walking until your dog has consistently mastered one full minute of heeling in your yard. Learning two new skills simultaneously can be mentally taxing for your dog, so focus on one at a time. Take plenty of sniff and play breaks between heeling sessions to keep the training fun and positive.
Once your dog can easily heel for a minute in your yard, slowly advance to more distracting environments. Start with a quiet street or path without other dogs (the new smells will be distracting enough). Remember: when you increase the level of distraction, reduce the difficulty in other areas. I typically suggest going back to rewarding your dog for every 10 steps in each new walking environment. Your dog will likely learn faster in subsequent new settings, so adjust the pace to their individual progress. Once your dog can heel for a minute, you are ready to incorporate loose leash walking instead of just stationary sniff/play breaks.
Teaching Your Dog to Loose Leash Walk
Once your dog has grasped the basic rules of heeling, it’s time to introduce loose leash walking! Again, I define loose leash walking as the dog being allowed to explore anywhere within the boundaries of their leash. If I cannot easily hold the leash with one finger, it does not qualify as loose leash walking. There should be absolutely no leash tension. If your dog wants to sniff during a loose leash walk, stop and allow them! While pulling is not permitted, loose leash walking provides the freedom for a dog to be a dog. Walks should be enjoyable for your canine companion too. You’ll observe a significant improvement compared to when you were first trying to teach your how to get puppies used to a leash when they were young.
How to teach your dog to loose leash walk:
Have your dog sit at your left side. Say “Let’s go!” to signal movement, then immediately follow it with “Okay!” and point forward. Your dog might hesitate slightly, as they are accustomed to heeling. Keep walking and allow your dog to slowly move away from you. If they stop to sniff something, let them! If a sniff lasts too long, say their name followed by either “Let’s go” or “Leave it,” and reward them with a treat when they start walking with you again.
It is highly beneficial to practice transitioning between heeling and loose leash walking. While your dog is learning, make these transitions easier by having them sit between commands. “Let’s go” always signals movement, while “Heel” or “Okay” communicates the specific boundaries of their walk. Consistency is paramount for dogs, so ensure you use your verbal cues correctly and consistently.
Your dog will be naturally enticed by more smells and greater freedom during loose leash walking, so keep in mind that this can be a challenging skill for them to master.
A few tips to help you train your dog to not pull on leash during loose leash walking:
- Maintain the No-Pull Policy: You must still enforce a strict no-pulling rule. Be careful not to accidentally reinforce pulling by allowing your dog to drag you to an enticing smell. Dogs earn their freedom on walks by behaving politely on the leash.
- Encourage Check-Ins: You want your dog to want to check in with you and maintain awareness of your presence. You should notice them looking up at you more frequently due to practicing “focus” and heeling. Keep reinforcing this! Give your dog a treat every time they look up at you without being cued.
- Observe Body Language: Pay close attention to your dog’s body language during loose leash walking. Most dogs have a “tell” just before they start to pull. You can often see their eyes lock onto something or their ears shift. If you notice these signs, say “Let’s go!” and turn in the opposite direction before they even begin to pull. Reward your dog for following you in the new direction! The most effective time to correct pulling is before it even happens.
- Manage Distractions: If an unexpected distraction arises during training, try to create distance between your dog and the distraction. This might mean crossing the road if you see another dog or turning to walk in the opposite direction. If your dog seems highly distracted, get them to sit and practice “focus” work (rewarding every successful focus). Sometimes, your dog simply needs a mental break!
- Handle Irresistible Smells: If you encounter a spot with such an amazing smell that your dog can’t help but pull towards it, tell them “leave it” and use a treat to change directions. Then, turn around and try approaching the spot again. If they still can’t resist pulling towards it the second time, instead put them in a “heel” position and use a treat to lure them past. It’s perfectly fine to make mistakes during training, but never reward pulling by giving in.
- Gradually Increase Difficulty: Slowly increase the duration and distraction levels of the environments where your dog is loose leash walking. Remember to build the skill incrementally! You want to create ample opportunities to reward your dog for making the right choices. You might also want to explore durable dog crates dogs can t break out of for managing behavior at home or during travel.
You and Your Dog Deserve Enjoyable Walks Together
It can take time and consistent effort to undo ingrained pulling behavior, but the outcome is incredibly rewarding. Just imagine: in as little as a month, you could be confidently taking your dog for walks with no pulling! How truly amazing would that be? A well-trained dog makes adventures far more pleasant, whether it’s a stroll around the block or learning how do i train my dog to go outside.
Please share your successes in the comments below once you’ve achieved enjoyable loose leash walking with your dog!
Happy training!
