One of the greatest joys of dog ownership is the simple pleasure of a walk together. However, this joy can quickly turn into frustration when your canine companion behaves more like a sled dog in a relentless race. If your daily walks feel less like a leisurely stroll and more like a never-ending game of “Red Light, Green Light” where you’re constantly being pulled, it’s time to master the art of loose leash walking. Teaching A Dog Not To Pull On The Leash is a fundamental skill that transforms walks from a chore into a truly enjoyable bonding experience.
Energetic sled dogs demonstrating strong pulling on a leash
Achieving a relaxed, loose leash walk is often one of the most challenging behaviors for dogs to learn because they aren’t born understanding our human pace or expectations. It’s also one of the most common issues I’m asked to address as a professional dog trainer. I completely understand how incredibly frustrating it can be to be constantly dragged down the street.
Dog walks should be a delightful part of your day, a chance for both you and your furry friend to enjoy the outdoors and connect. This ideal scenario is impossible when you’re constantly battling a pulling dog. I’ve successfully taught countless dogs to walk politely on a loose leash, including those that initially pulled so hard they nearly dislocated my arm! I can confidently assure you that with patience and consistent positive reinforcement, every dog can learn to be a wonderful walking partner. Even better, you can teach your dog not to pull using only positive training methods. I am firmly against the use of choke chains, prong collars, shock collars, or any other aversive tools. If you wouldn’t use it on a child, it has no place in your dog’s training regimen.
There’s a lot of outdated and incorrect information circulating that suggests your dog is attempting to show dominance or control by pulling on the leash. This is simply not true. All pulling means is that your dog hasn’t been taught appropriate leash manners, and they are currently more focused on the stimulating environment around them than on you. This is a completely normal canine behavior! It is our responsibility as dog owners and trainers to teach our dogs what we expect from them during walks.
Unfortunately, these misconceptions have led many people to believe their dogs are “being bad” when they pull, resulting in a lack of patience and, in some cases, punishment for the pulling behavior. I’ve witnessed other trainers suggest punishments ranging from mildly aversive techniques to outright animal abuse. As a positive reinforcement trainer, I oppose all such methods. I have personally taught many dogs to walk politely on a leash, and I want you to know that you can absolutely, 100% achieve a well-behaved walking companion using only positive, humane training methods.
This article is intentionally comprehensive. While many resources offer quick “5 steps to make your dog stop pulling,” I often found them lacking the depth and actionable advice that dog owners truly need to succeed. They weren’t comprehensive enough to be genuinely helpful. So, I wrote my own guide! Consider this your complete resource for everything you need to know about teaching a dog not to pull on the leash. Enjoying a pleasant walk with your dog is one of the best ways to strengthen your bond, and I want every dog owner to experience that joy. I strongly recommend reading the entire article and not skipping sections, as everything is designed to work together to help you solve your dog’s pulling habits.
A bulldog puppy playfully pulling on its leash
Understanding Why Your Dog Pulls on the Leash
Despite common belief, your dog pulling on the leash has nothing to do with dominance, control, or any notion of them “being a jerk.” The real reasons are much simpler and rooted in their natural instincts and lack of training.
1. Insufficient Exercise
Many dogs don’t receive enough exercise for their breed and energy levels, leading to a surplus of pent-up energy. For numerous dogs, their daily 30-minute walk is their only opportunity for physical activity, which is often far from sufficient. It’s unreasonable to expect a dog with an abundance of energy to walk calmly beside you. To be successful in teaching a dog not to pull on the leash, ensure your dog is adequately tired before your training sessions. Consider activities like off-leash running in a secure area, playing fetch with a ball or frisbee, or visiting a dog park. If you lack the time, hiring a dog walker or enrolling them in doggy daycare are excellent alternatives. Providing adequate exercise is a core component of responsible dog ownership. Research your dog’s breed and ensure you are truly meeting their specific needs before expecting certain behaviors from them. Beyond just walking, you might even explore basic agility training for dogs to burn mental and physical energy.
2. Humans Are Slow
Most dogs naturally walk at a faster pace than humans. Imagine trying to take a turtle for a walk – you’d likely get bored and want to speed up, wouldn’t you? To dogs, we are the turtles. It’s important to recognize that slowing down their natural pace is difficult for them. Be empathetic to the significant effort this will require from your dog, and how unnatural it feels. Can they learn? Absolutely.
3. The Outside World Smells Amazing
Let’s be honest. If you’re chatting with a friend and your phone buzzes, aren’t you tempted to glance at it, even if you know it’s a bit rude? Or, how hard would it be to concentrate on work if your favorite TV show was playing nearby? You’d likely get distracted. For dogs, the sights and smells of the outdoors are equally, if not more, distracting during the “job” of walking politely.
Dogs possess an average of 50 times more scent receptors and 40 times more brain space dedicated to processing smells than humans. We can’t even begin to comprehend it, but dogs can detect scents diluted to 1-2 parts per trillion. What might appear to you as a simple patch of grass is, to a dog, a world of intricate aromas.
This incredible sense of smell also means that sniffing can act as a powerful reward for dogs. If your dog has been pulling you towards interesting smells for months or years, they have essentially been rewarded for that pulling behavior (by gaining access to the smell). It will take time, patience, and new, compelling rewards to change this established behavior.
How Dogs Learn: Principles of Positive Training
If you’d like a deep dive into canine cognition and learning theory, there are many resources available. In basic terms, there are two primary approaches to training a dog:
- Reward desired behaviors: Reinforce actions you want your dog to repeat, such as giving a treat for walking nicely or making eye contact.
- Punish unwanted behaviors: Use an aversive to stop a behavior, such as a prong collar when the dog pulls.
As a positive reinforcement trainer, I believe it’s our responsibility to clearly teach our dogs what we do want from them. I strongly discourage training methods that rely on punishing a dog until they stumble upon the desired behavior. Imagine if your parents or boss expected you to learn that way – how stressed and confused would you be? It is your job to clearly communicate your expectations to your dog.
Punishment-based techniques primarily teach a dog what not to do, while positive training effectively teaches dogs what to do. If your goal is teaching a dog not to pull on the leash, you must begin training in an environment where they are set up for success. Why? Because you need opportunities to reward them for getting it right! For many dogs, this means starting loose leash training inside your home, where distractions are minimal.
It can be challenging to grasp how the training environment impacts your dog’s ability to perform. Let’s use a human analogy. Do you know your ABCs? Of course! If I asked you to recite them in your head right now, you likely could. That’s comparable to asking your dog to heel indoors – minimal distraction. Now, if I asked you to tell your spouse or child the ABCs, it might feel a little awkward, but you could still do it. That’s like asking your dog to heel in your backyard; they’re comfortable, but there’s a bit more distraction.
Finally, imagine if I placed you on a stage in front of 10,000 people and asked you to sing your ABCs into a microphone. You’d probably be so overwhelmed you’d forget how to speak! That’s the equivalent of asking your dog to walk politely in a highly distracting environment. How stressed would you feel if you were threatened with punishment for not performing perfectly in that scenario? That’s what it’s like to punish your dog for not being able to “perform” in a situation for which you haven’t adequately prepared them. It’s unfair and an ineffective training method.
It’s also ineffective positive training to place your dog in a situation where they are too overwhelmed to learn and then attempt to control them with treats. To successfully use positive reinforcement, you must start in an environment where your dog can be successful. Create opportunities for praise and reward so they clearly understand your expectations. They can learn to walk nicely in highly distracting environments, but that won’t happen overnight. Slowly build up the difficulty and give your dog ample opportunity to solidify their skills.
Three Essential Skills to Teach Your Dog BEFORE Leash Training
Dog focusing on owner during training, a prerequisite for loose leash walking
Warning: Do not skip these foundational skills and jump directly into loose leash training! These three commands will significantly help your dog develop impulse control and learn the value of focusing on you. When you eventually transition to loose leash walking in more distracting environments, these skills will be invaluable for keeping your dog engaged. A focused, attentive dog is far less likely to pull! Mastering these basics will save you immense frustration and a sore arm.
I’ve provided a brief description of why each skill is necessary below and encourage you to seek out detailed tutorials for each. I suggest practicing these skills for at least a few days, preferably a week, before beginning any loose leash walking training. Get your dog solid on them!
1. Sit
“Sit” is a fundamental obedience command that every dog should know. It’s incredibly useful for teaching a dog not to pull on the leash as it provides a natural transition cue between different walking modes (e.g., heel and free walk) or as a useful “time-out” break in overly distracting settings.
2. Focus (Watch Me)
Every dog greatly benefits from learning a “focus” or “watch me” command. Teaching your dog to check in with you regularly is a critical building block for all advanced obedience skills and significantly enhances your overall bond. “Focus” teaches your dog that wonderful things happen when they make eye contact with you. Strong eye contact is crucial for clear communication between you and your dog. In highly distracting environments, a well-trained “focus” command can help calm your dog, redirect their attention, and bring them back to you. This also helps lay the groundwork for amazing tricks to teach your dog.
3. Leave It
The “leave it” command is an essential life skill. It’s immensely useful during distraction training, particularly for loose leash walking, but it can also literally save your dog’s life. Puppies and adult dogs are notorious for trying to gobble up random, potentially dangerous items they find on the ground. A solid “leave it” can prevent your dog from ingesting something toxic or harmful. The goal is to be able to communicate to your dog to ignore something without needing to physically restrain them. “Leave it” is essentially a promise to your dog: if they refrain from grabbing or engaging with the interesting item, you will reward them with something equally, if not more, amazing instead.
Heeling vs. Loose Leash Walking: What’s the Difference?
The challenge with discussing “loose leash walking” is that the term is often defined differently by various trainers and owners. In my approach, I distinguish between two distinct ways I walk a dog: a perfect heel and a loose leash walk. I advocate for teaching and utilizing both!
Heeling
To me, heeling means your dog walks precisely at your side, neither falling behind nor advancing past your knee. I personally prefer to teach dogs to walk on my left side, so that’s my standard. My expectations and boundaries for heeling are much stricter than for loose leash walking. I require the dog to be exactly at my left side, matching my pace. During a heel, I do not permit sniff breaks, greetings with other dogs, or any deviation from position.
If this sounds incredibly strict, you’re right, it is! However, teaching your dog to heel is an excellent way to establish clear boundaries and expectations during the learning process. It has very explicit rules, which dogs often grasp quickly. When you are first teaching a dog not to pull on the leash, I suggest incorporating “heel” training for about 50% of your training time. It clearly communicates specific rules to your dog. Once a dog is fully trained, I recommend maintaining a strict heel for about 10% of the time or less. It’s a valuable skill for navigating busy sidewalks, crowded areas, or other highly distracting settings where your dog needs to “behave” impeccably. While too strict for full-time use, it’s a crucial skill to learn and maintain.
Below is a video of a dog I trained named Kiki. She used to pull so severely that her owners worried about walking her in the winter! It took only about a week to get her to heel like you see in this video. Positive training truly works!
https://vimeo.com/645569975/a8e875ce90
However, I also firmly believe that walks should be enjoyable for the dog! As your dog becomes more trained, you should increase the amount of time they spend on a loose leash rather than in a perfect heel. Loose leash walking provides them the freedom to sniff, explore, and simply be a dog! Remember: the walk should be as much for your dog’s mental and physical enrichment as it is for yours.
Loose Leash Walking
Once a dog has been trained to heel consistently, I suggest transitioning to loose leash walking for the majority of your walks. I recommend using a 6-foot leash for walks. You want a leash that’s long enough to allow your dog freedom and the ability to sniff and explore. Let them be a dog! However, I strongly advise against retractable leashes due to safety concerns and how they teach dogs to constantly pull.
So, what exactly is loose leash walking? I define it as my dog’s ability to roam freely within the boundaries of their 6-foot leash. There must be no pressure or pulling on the leash. If I cannot easily hold the leash with one finger, it’s not a loose leash walk. Otherwise, they are free to explore. If my dog wants to stop and sniff something, and they do so politely (without pulling), I will stop and let them! Sniffing is a healthy and natural activity for dogs. However, if the sniff lasts too long and I wish to continue walking, I expect the dog to rejoin me with just a verbal cue. Neither you nor your dog should be pulling each other.
Watch Kiki loose leash walk in this video. I allow her to sniff something she’s interested in, then, without any leash tension, I cue her to walk with me again when asked.
https://vimeo.com/645644957/8964eedaf1
Training Your Dog to Heel and Loose Leash Walk Using Positive Reinforcement
Teaching a dog not to pull on the leash through heeling and loose leash walking requires patience, but it is incredibly rewarding. My dog, Neirah, accompanies me everywhere. She walks so beautifully that I rarely have to think about managing her leash. Being able to get lost in your thoughts and relax on walks is a truly wonderful feeling, and I sincerely want that for you. I firmly believe you can achieve this! I have helped countless dog owners successfully teach their dogs not to pull, and I can guide you too.
Every dog has the capacity to walk politely on a leash; they simply need the time and guidance to learn. Your goal is to build a positive association that amazing things happen to your dog when they are close to you and paying attention during walks. We use high-value treats to condition this association. Eventually, treats can be phased out (or significantly reduced), and your dog will continue to walk nicely. I rarely bring treats on walks with Neirah anymore, yet she consistently chooses to check in with me.
Important Considerations for Loose Leash Training
- Progress Distraction Levels Slowly: We will gradually increase the level of distraction. It may take several weeks before you can take your dog on a “real walk” rather than a dedicated training walk. During this initial period, I recommend exercising your dog through other activities such as fetch, dog parks, or backyard play to burn off excess energy. Ensure your dog is sufficiently exercised, otherwise, asking them to walk politely is unfair to them.
- Consistency is Key: No More Rewarding Pulling: It is absolutely crucial that from the day you decide to start teaching a dog not to pull on the leash, that behavior never results in a reward for them. Remember, if they pull you to sniff something, that scent is a reward for the act of pulling. You must commit to completely stopping the pulling behavior rather than sporadically accepting it. If you give in when your dog pulls hard enough, you only teach them to pull harder next time they want something. From day one of training onward, pulling can never lead to your dog getting what they want. Dogs learn best with consistent training! Instead, reinforce that good things happen when they walk politely without pulling.
- Start in a Low-Distraction Environment: It’s critical to begin in an environment where your dog can be successful, creating numerous opportunities to reward them for doing it right. I always recommend starting your first training sessions inside the house, where distractions are minimal. This controlled environment sets the stage for success and helps your dog understand the new expectations.
- Reward Lavishly: You are asking your dog to learn a difficult new skill, so reward them generously for their efforts! If you feel like a “Pez dispenser” with treats while teaching a dog not to pull on the leash, you’re likely doing it correctly! Ensure you have a good supply of high-value treats in your treat bag for every session (I typically pre-break them into tiny, pea-sized pieces). Use these treats to clearly communicate to your dog when they are doing a great job. You can avoid overfeeding your dog by slightly decreasing the amount of food given at meals while they are in intensive training. While treats will eventually be phased out, ensure they aren’t removed too quickly.
A person's hand with treats, reinforcing good behavior during dog training
What You’ll Need:
- A well-fitting flat collar or harness: Avoid aversive tools. A front-clip harness can be helpful for management while training.
- A standard 6-foot leash: Not a retractable leash.
- High-value treats: Small, soft, and irresistible to your dog.
- A treat pouch: For easy and quick access to rewards.
Teaching Your Dog to Heel
Get yourself ready: Start with your dog on a leash, in a sit position on your left side. Hold a small supply of treats in your left hand and the leash in your right hand. Remember to always give treats with your left hand, ensuring your dog doesn’t learn to cut in front of you for a reward. The leash should always remain loose; your dog will be learning to pace themselves, rather than you holding them in place.
Choose a phrase for movement: Decide on a consistent verbal cue you will use to ask your dog to start moving. I personally use “Let’s go!”, but use whatever phrase feels natural to you.
Get your dog’s attention: Ask your dog to “Focus” on you, and immediately reward them with a treat when they do.
Begin: Say your chosen phrase, “Let’s go!”, and use the treat in your left hand as a lure, held directly in front of your dog’s nose, to keep them right at your side. Take 3 steps with them in this perfect heel position, then reward them with a treat. Once you sense your dog is starting to understand this game, begin saying “Heel” as you start walking.
Practice: Dedicate ample time to practicing this. Gradually work up to being able to take 10 steps in a perfect heel. Once your dog is consistently solid on 10 steps a few times in a row, they are likely ready to move outside to the yard.
Every time you increase the distraction level, you need to take a step back in difficulty.
Move outside: Remember, you want your dog to be successful! Since you’ve moved to a new, more distracting environment (your yard), go back to luring for 3 steps then offering a treat. As this becomes easy for your dog, slowly increase back to 10 steps.
Phase out the lure: Once your dog has mastered 10 steps in the yard, it’s time to stop constantly luring them with treats in front of their nose! Reward your dog for sitting nicely beside you, then say “Let’s go!” and “Heel”. Slowly try to increase the number of steps you can take with your dog maintaining a perfect heel position. If you sense your dog is losing focus, try talking to them in an encouraging tone to keep their attention. You want to reward your dog for checking in with you, so offer a treat every time they make eye contact. Aim to work up to being able to keep your dog in a heel for a full minute between treats.
Practice! If your dog is accustomed to pulling on the leash, you will likely need to spend several days practicing heeling in your yard. They are learning a completely new skill, and behavior change takes time.
Remember to progress slowly! Behavior change is hard and takes time.
I suggest keeping training sessions short, around 20 minutes twice a day, to prevent both you and your dog from becoming overwhelmed or frustrated.
If your dog tries to sniff or pulls sideways while they are heeling, calmly say “Leave it” and use the slightest amount of leash pressure (as practiced in other general obedience) to gently guide them back to your side. Reward them every single time they return to your side. Remember, pulling no longer gets your dog what they want.
If they try to pull ahead of you, say “Let’s go” and immediately turn to walk in the opposite direction. Reward them generously when they come with you! This helps your dog understand that they need to stay next to you and pay attention. Teach your dog that you might change direction at any second, and awesome things happen when they follow your lead.
I don’t recommend adding in loose leash walking until your dog has mastered holding a heel for one full minute reliably. It takes more effort and mental capacity for your dog to learn two skills simultaneously, so just focus on heeling for now. Between heeling sessions, take sniff and play breaks to keep the training fun and engaging. You could also try getting your puppy to poop outside during these breaks.
Once your dog can easily heel for a minute in your yard, slowly progress the distraction levels of where you’re walking. Start by taking them to a quiet street or path without other dogs (the new smells will be distracting enough). Remember, when you increase the level of distraction, take a step back in other aspects of difficulty. I usually suggest reverting to rewarding your dog for 10 steps with each new walking environment. Your dog will likely learn quicker in each new setting, so increase the difficulty at their pace. Once your dog can consistently heel for a minute, you’re ready to incorporate loose leash walking instead of just stationary sniff/play breaks. This structured approach helps ensure success in teaching a dog not to pull on the leash.
Teaching Your Dog to Loose Leash Walk
Once your dog has learned the basic rules and expectations of heeling, it’s time to introduce loose leash walking! Again, I define loose leash walking as the dog being allowed to go anywhere within the boundaries of their leash. If I cannot easily hold the leash with one finger, I do not count it as a loose leash walk. There should be absolutely no leash tension!
If your dog wants to sniff during a loose leash walk, stop and let them! While I do not permit pulling, loose leash walking provides your dog the freedom to explore and simply be a dog. Walks should be enjoyable for your dog too.
Here’s how to teach your dog to loose leash walk:
Have your dog sit at your left side. Say your movement cue, “Let’s go!”, and immediately follow it with “Ok!” (or another release word) and point forward. Your dog will likely hesitate slightly, as they are accustomed to heeling. Keep walking and allow your dog to slowly move away from your side. If they stop to sniff something, let them! If the sniff lasts too long for your pace, say their name followed by either “Let’s go” or “Leave it” and reward them with a treat when they start walking with you again.
It’s valuable to practice transitioning between heeling and loose leash walking. While your dog is learning, I make it easier by having them sit between transitions. “Let’s go” always tells the dog I want movement, then “Heel” or “Ok” communicates the specific boundaries of where they should walk. Consistency in your cues is incredibly important for dogs, so make sure you use your words properly and consistently. This is a great way to incorporate a variety of training styles, similar to out of the dog house training where structure and freedom are balanced.
Your dog will be enticed by more smells and freedom during loose leash walking, so keep in mind that it can be a difficult skill to learn.
A Few Tips for Successful Loose Leash Walking:
- Maintain Your No-Pulling Policy: You must still enforce a strict no-pulling rule. Be vigilant not to accidentally reinforce pulling by letting your dog drag you to an interesting smell. Dogs earn their freedom on walks by demonstrating polite leash manners.
- Encourage Check-Ins: You want your dog to want to check in with you and be aware of your location. You should notice them looking up at you more often as a result of practicing “Focus” and heeling. Continue to foster this! Give your dog a treat every time they look up at you without being cued. This strengthens your bond and their attentiveness.
- Watch Body Language for Early Cues: Observe your dog’s body language carefully during loose leash walking. Most dogs have a subtle “tell” before they begin to pull. You might notice their eyes lock onto something, or their ears pivot downwards. If you observe these early warning signs, immediately say “Let’s go!” and turn in the opposite direction before they even have a chance to pull you. Reward your dog generously for following you in the new direction! The most effective time to address pulling is before it even happens.
- Manage Distractions Strategically: If a distraction unexpectedly appears during your training session, try to increase the distance between it and your dog. This might mean crossing the road if you spot another dog, or simply turning to walk in the opposite direction. If your dog seems overly distracted, have them sit and practice “Focus” (rewarding every successful focus). Sometimes, your dog just needs a short mental break! Remember, tricks to teach an old dog often involve managing distractions carefully too.
- Address High-Value Sniffs: If you encounter a spot that smells so incredibly enticing your dog can’t help but pull towards it, tell them to “Leave it” and use a treat to redirect them and switch directions. Then, turn and try to pass the spot again. If they still can’t resist pulling towards it the second time, instead put them into a “Heel” and use a treat to lure them calmly past. It’s perfectly okay to make mistakes; just ensure you never reward the pulling behavior by giving in.
- Gradual Progression: Slowly increase the duration and distraction levels of where your dog is loose leash walking. Remember to build up the skill gradually! You want to create numerous opportunities to reward your dog for making the right choices.
Both You & Your Dog Deserve Enjoyable Walks
It can take time and consistent effort to undo the ingrained behavior of pulling on the leash, but the rewards are immeasurable. The investment is well worth it. Just imagine: in as little as one month, you could be confidently taking your dog on enjoyable, pull-free walks! How amazing would that be?
Please share your success stories in the comments below once you’ve achieved consistent loose leash walking with your dog! Happy training!
