The recent release of the 2006 Cheval-Blanc, with its reported future price of around $700 a bottle, highlights the stratospheric cost of some of Bordeaux’s most celebrated wines. This astronomical price point brings to mind another esteemed St.-Emilion estate, Château Canon, which consistently produces wines of exceptional class and longevity, yet at a fraction of the cost. Château Canon offers a compelling alternative for those seeking wines with a rich history and sophisticated profile.
Owned by the Wertheimer family, who also possess the renowned fashion house Chanel, Château Canon has undergone significant investment to elevate its nearly 35-acre vineyard. Situated atop the hill in the medieval town of St.-Emilion, the estate boasts remarkable vineyards and a dedication to quality, reminiscent of the meticulous craftsmanship associated with Chanel. Following TCA contamination issues in the early 1990s, the Wertheimers undertook a complete renovation of the winery, with their first vintage under new management being 1994.
Château Canon’s wines are celebrated for their ability to age gracefully, developing complex tertiary aromas and flavors over decades. Unlike some more overtly powerful wines, Canon offers a more restrained and elegant style, characterized by finesse and impeccable balance. This understated elegance is akin to describing the Chanel brand – a timeless quality that eschews flashiness for enduring sophistication.
A recent comparative tasting of numerous Canon vintages at the château provided a clear picture of the estate’s consistent winemaking excellence. The 2005 vintage, in particular, has shown remarkable development, evolving beautifully from its initial barrel tasting. While initially projected to score in the low 90s, its bottled form is expected to reach a higher echelon, potentially between 92-94 points, showcasing its aging potential and the quality of the vintage.
Tasting Notes of Château Canon Vintages
The following notes offer a glimpse into the character and evolution of various Château Canon vintages, reflecting the estate’s commitment to producing age-worthy wines:
- 2005: This vintage continues to impress, displaying a super floral and fruity nose with undertones of cherry and dark chocolate. It is full and rich, with glorious velvety tannins and an exceptionally long finish that lingers for minutes on the palate.
- 2004: Characterized by its focused and fruity profile, this vintage presents aromas of raspberry and blackberry. It is medium- to full-bodied, with fine tannins and a refined, focused finish. Balanced, and best enjoyed after 2010. (90 points, non-blind)
- 2003: Already delightfully approachable, this vintage offers a lovely silky, round texture. It is full and velvety, with subtle blackberry and chocolate notes. While tempting to drink now, patience is recommended for optimal enjoyment. Best after 2010. (92 points, non-blind)
- 2002: Dominated by Merlot (90% in this vintage, compared to a typical 75%), this wine is delicious, with soft, silky tannins and abundant milk chocolate and fruit flavors. It is subtle and refined. (91 points, non-blind)
- 2001: A quintessential expression of the Canon style, this vintage is rich and structured yet remarkably subtle and refined. Complex aromas of chocolate, berries, and forest floor are supported by underlying minerality. It is full yet balanced and refined, with a very long and structured finish. Fresh and tight, best after 2010. (93 points, non-blind)
- 2000: This vintage shows better than previously remembered, offering richness and power with a hint of raisin, dark chocolate, and toasted oak. It strikes a balance between the character of the 2003 and 2001 vintages. Full and velvety, it is very young and tight with a chewy texture. Better after 2012. (95 points, non-blind)
- 1999: Exhibiting a brighter acidity, this vintage has berry and light vanilla notes. It is medium-bodied, fresh, and clean, best enjoyed now. (87 points, non-blind)
- 1998: This vintage is drinking beautifully now or can be cellared further. It offers abundant plummy character and floral notes on the nose, with a very bright profile. Hints of barley and nutmeg complement a full, silky palate with blackberry and mineral characteristics. It displays subtle layers of fresh acidity and silky tannins, leading to a very long finish. (91 points, non-blind)
A Glimpse into Older Vintages
Beyond the more recent vintages, dinners featuring older bottles of Château Canon underscored the estate’s long-standing tradition of fine winemaking. Notable older selections, including 1985, 1975, and 1955, were all drinking exceptionally well, proving the remarkable aging capacity of Canon wines. Additionally, a tasting of 1961 and 1959 vintages in magnum further confirmed their profound ability to age gracefully.
- 1985: This vintage presents a generous jammy, plummy character with a full body, velvety tannins, and a long finish. It remains very youthful and fruity, still benefiting from a little more bottle age. (93 points, non-blind)
- 1975: While many wines from this vintage are beginning to fade, the 1975 Canon remains fruity and fresh. Aromas of strawberry, cedar, and vanilla lead to a full, silky-textured palate with fruity and mushroom notes. (92 points, non-blind)
- 1955: A truly exceptional wine, this vintage is remarkably complex, showcasing an abundance of fresh mushroom, dried porcini, plum, and berry characteristics. It is full, silky, and long, with floral notes and dried tobacco on the finish. (94 points, non-blind)
The enduring quality and remarkable aging potential of Château Canon wines make them a distinguished choice for collectors and enthusiasts. The estate’s dedication to excellence, combined with its elegant and refined style, solidifies its position among Bordeaux’s most esteemed producers. For those seeking wines that offer both immediate pleasure and profound aging capacity, exploring the vintages of Château Canon is a rewarding endeavor.
