One of the most rewarding aspects of dog ownership is enjoying peaceful walks together. However, this joy can quickly turn into frustration when your dog pulls incessantly, transforming a relaxing stroll into a strenuous tug-of-war. If you’re tired of walks resembling an unpleasant game of “Red Light/Green Light,” it’s time to teach your canine companion essential loose leash walking skills. Learning how to train your dog not to pull on lead is a journey that requires patience, consistency, and the right approach, but the rewards—a harmonious walking partnership—are immeasurable.
Teaching a dog not to pull on the leash is often cited as one of the most challenging behaviors to instill, primarily because dogs aren’t born with an innate understanding of how to walk politely beside us. As a professional dog trainer who has helped countless owners overcome this very common and incredibly frustrating issue, I can assure you that with dedicated effort, every dog can learn to be an enjoyable walking partner. The good news is that you can effectively teach your dog not to pull using positive reinforcement methods only, without resorting to harsh tools or aversive techniques. My philosophy is simple: if you wouldn’t use it on a toddler, it’s not appropriate for your dog.
There’s a common misconception that a dog’s pulling behavior signifies dominance or an attempt to control you. This is far from the truth. In reality, pulling merely indicates that your dog hasn’t been taught polite boundaries and is currently more focused on the captivating environment around them than on you. This is entirely normal! It’s our responsibility as owners to guide our dogs and teach them what we expect from them during walks. Unfortunately, these false beliefs have often led owners to lose patience and even punish their dogs for pulling, which is counterproductive and harmful. Positive training works, and I am committed to showing you how to achieve a beautifully walking dog using only humane and effective methods.
You might find other articles that promise “5 steps to make your dog stop pulling” or similar quick fixes. My experience has shown that these often lack the depth and comprehensiveness truly needed for dog owners to succeed in teaching loose leash walking. That’s why I’ve developed this extensive guide—to provide you with everything you need to know about teaching your dog not to pull on the leash. A pleasant walk is one of the best ways to bond with your dog, and I believe every owner deserves to experience that joy. I strongly recommend reading this entire article without skipping sections, as each part builds upon the last to provide a holistic solution to your dog’s pulling habits.
Energetic sled dogs pulling a person on a leash, illustrating the common challenge of dog pulling during walks
Why Does My Dog Pull on Leash?
Contrary to popular belief, your dog pulling on the leash has nothing to do with dominance, control, or any inherent “bad” behavior. The actual reasons are much simpler and more understandable:
1. Insufficient Exercise
Many dogs, particularly those with high energy breeds, do not receive enough daily exercise to meet their physical and mental needs. For some, a 30-minute walk is their only opportunity for physical activity, which is often far from adequate. It’s unrealistic to expect a dog with a surplus of pent-up energy to walk calmly beside you. To set your dog up for success in loose leash walking, ensure they are sufficiently tired before training sessions. This could involve off-leash running, playing fetch with a ball or frisbee, or visiting a dog park. If your schedule doesn’t permit this, consider hiring a dog walker or enrolling them in doggy daycare. Providing appropriate exercise is a fundamental aspect of responsible dog ownership; research your dog’s breed to ensure you are meeting their specific needs before expecting them to perform for you.
2. Humans Are Slow
Most dogs naturally walk at a faster pace than their human companions. Imagine trying to walk a turtle—eventually, you’d likely get bored and want to move faster. From a dog’s perspective, we are often the “turtle.” It’s important to acknowledge that slowing down their natural pace is challenging and unnatural for them. While it requires significant effort on their part, dogs absolutely can learn to adjust their pace to yours.
3. The Outside World Smells Amazing
Dogs live in a scent-rich world that is almost incomprehensible to humans. On average, dogs possess 50 times more scent receptors and 40 times more brain space dedicated to processing smells than we do. They can detect odors diluted to one or two parts per trillion. What appears to you as a simple patch of grass is, to a dog, a blissful symphony of scents. These outdoor sights and smells are incredibly distracting, making the “job” of walking politely exceptionally difficult.
This heightened sense of smell also means that sniffing is an inherently rewarding activity for dogs. If your dog has been successfully pulling you towards interesting smells for months or years, they have been consistently rewarded for their pulling behavior. Changing this ingrained habit will require time, patience, and new, compelling rewards to redirect their focus.
A dog with its nose to the ground, intensely sniffing a patch of grass, demonstrating how distracting scents are for dogs outdoors
How Do Dogs Learn?
Understanding how dogs learn is crucial for effective training. Broadly speaking, there are two primary approaches to dog training:
- Reward desired behaviors: This involves reinforcing actions you want your dog to repeat, such as offering a treat when they walk nicely or make eye contact with you.
- Punish unwanted behaviors: This approach uses aversive tools or techniques to stop behaviors, like using a prong collar when a dog pulls.
As a positive reinforcement trainer, I firmly believe it’s our responsibility to clearly teach our dogs what we do want from them. Training that focuses solely on punishing a dog until they guess the desired behavior is unfair and stressful for the animal. Imagine if your parents or boss expected you to learn this way—how anxious would you be? Our role is to be clear and consistent in our instructions.
Punishment-based techniques emphasize what not to do, while positive training teaches dogs what to do. To successfully teach your dog not to pull on the leash, you must begin in an environment where they can succeed. This means creating opportunities for them to perform the desired behavior so you can reward it. For many dogs, the least distracting environment is inside your home, making it the ideal starting point for loose leash training.
It’s vital to recognize how the training environment impacts your dog’s ability to perform. Consider this analogy:
- Indoors: Asking your dog to heel indoors is like reciting the alphabet in your head—easy and low distraction.
- Backyard: Asking your dog to heel in your backyard is like telling your spouse the alphabet—a bit more distracting, but manageable.
- Busy street: Asking your dog to walk nicely in a highly distracting environment is like being asked to sing the alphabet on stage in front of 10,000 people—it would likely be overwhelming, causing you to forget even the simplest task.
It is unfair and ineffective to punish your dog for an emotional response or for becoming overwhelmed in a challenging setting. True positive reinforcement requires you to start in an environment where your dog can be successful, allowing for frequent praise and rewards to solidify their understanding of your expectations. Your dog’s ability to learn is directly tied to the context and level of distraction. Build up the difficulty gradually, giving your dog ample opportunity to cement their skills. They can learn to walk nicely in highly distracting environments, but it won’t happen overnight.
3 Essential Skills to Teach Your Dog BEFORE Loose Leash Walking
Please heed this warning: do not skip these foundational skills and jump directly into loose leash training! These three commands are crucial for developing your dog’s impulse control and teaching them the value of focusing on you. When you eventually transition to more distracting environments for loose leash walking, these skills will be invaluable for maintaining your dog’s focus. A focused, engaged dog is significantly less likely to pull. Mastering these will save you immense frustration and sore arms.
I recommend practicing these skills for at least a few days, ensuring your dog is solid on them, before beginning any loose leash walking training.
Sit
“Sit” is a fundamental obedience command that every dog should know. It’s incredibly useful during loose leash walking as a clear transition cue (e.g., between heeling and a relaxed “okay” command) or as a calming “time-out” in overly stimulating environments. A reliable sit provides a default behavior for your dog when they need to pause or regain composure.
Focus
The “focus” command teaches your dog to check in with you regularly. This skill is a vital building block for more advanced obedience training and significantly strengthens the bond between you and your dog. Focus teaches your dog that looking at you results in wonderful things (like treats or praise). Eye contact is paramount for clear communication. In distracting settings, a well-trained “focus” command can help calm your dog and redirect their attention back to you, ensuring they stay engaged during the walk and helping to how to train your dog not to pull on lead.
A happy dog looking up at its owner, illustrating good focus and engagement during a training session with treats
Leave It
“Leave it” is an absolutely essential command. While invaluable for distraction training, particularly during loose leash walking, it can also be a life-saving skill. Puppies and adult dogs are notorious for trying to ingest random, potentially dangerous items they find on the ground. A solid “leave it” command allows you to communicate to your dog to ignore something without needing to physically intervene. This command serves as a promise to your dog: if they refrain from engaging with something interesting, you will provide them with an even better reward instead. This is vital for safety and for maintaining focus on walks.
The Difference Between Heeling and Loose Leash Walking
One of the common difficulties in discussing “loose leash walking” is the varied definitions people use. In my training philosophy, I distinguish between two distinct ways of walking a dog: a “perfect heel” and “loose leash walking.” I advocate for using both methods as they serve different purposes and offer different benefits.
Heeling
For me, “heeling” means the dog walks precisely at your side, neither falling behind nor advancing past your knee. I personally teach dogs to walk on my left side, and that’s the standard I maintain. The expectations and boundaries for a heel are much stricter than for loose leash walking. I expect the dog to be exactly at my left side, matching my pace, with no allowances for sniff breaks or greetings with other dogs.
If this sounds incredibly strict, you’re right—it is. Teaching your dog to heel is an excellent way to establish clear boundaries and expectations during the learning phase. The rules are very distinct, and dogs often grasp them quickly. While initially teaching your dog not to pull on the leash, I suggest incorporating “heel” for about 50% of your training time. This clearly communicates the rules. Once a dog is fully trained, I recommend using a strict heel for approximately 10% of the time or less. It’s an invaluable skill for navigating busy sidewalks, crowded areas, or other highly distracting environments where precise control is necessary. While too restrictive for constant use, it’s a critical skill to learn and maintain for safety and manners.
However, I also believe that walks should be enjoyable for the dog! As your dog becomes more trained, you should increase the amount of time they spend in loose leash walking rather than a perfect heel. Loose leash walking provides them with the freedom to explore scents and truly “be a dog.” Remember, a walk should be as much for your dog’s enjoyment as it is for yours.
Loose Leash Walking
Once a dog has mastered the heel, I recommend transitioning to loose leash walking for the majority of your outings. For loose leash walking, I suggest using a 6-foot leash. This length provides enough freedom for your dog to explore and sniff. You want to allow them to indulge their natural canine behaviors! However, I strongly advise against retractable leashes due to safety concerns and their tendency to reinforce pulling.
So, how do I define loose leash walking? It’s my dog’s ability to move freely within the 6-foot boundary of the leash. Crucially, there should be no pressure or pulling on the leash. As long as there’s no tension, they are free to roam. If my dog wants to stop and sniff politely (without pulling), I allow it. Sniffing is a healthy and natural activity for dogs. If a sniff break extends too long and I wish to continue, I expect my dog to rejoin me with just a verbal cue. Neither you nor your dog should be pulling each other.
How to stop dog from dragging me
Training Your Dog to Heel and Loose Leash Walk Using Positive Reinforcement
Training your dog to heel or loose leash walk requires patience, but the effort is incredibly worthwhile. The ability to take your dog everywhere, with them walking beautifully beside you, is a truly liberating experience. Imagine being able to get lost in your thoughts and relax on walks, rather than constantly managing a pulling dog. I sincerely want that for you, and I firmly believe you can achieve it! I’ve helped countless dog owners conquer pulling, and I can guide you too.
Every dog possesses the ability to walk nicely on a leash; they simply need time and consistent instruction to learn. Your goal is to build a strong association that wonderful things happen when your dog stays close and pays attention to you during walks. We achieve this conditioning using treats. Over time, treats can be gradually phased out (or at least dramatically reduced), and your dog will continue to choose polite walking behavior. With my own dog, Neirah, I rarely bring treats on walks anymore, yet she consistently chooses to check in with me.
Important Considerations for Teaching Loose Leash Walking
- Gradual Progression of Distraction: We will slowly increase the level of distraction. It may take several weeks before you can take your dog on a “real walk” as opposed to a structured training walk. During this initial period, ensure your dog gets sufficient exercise through activities like fetch, dog parks, or backyard play. Asking a dog with pent-up energy to walk politely is unfair and will hinder your progress.
- Consistency is Key: From the very first day you commit to teaching your dog not to pull, you must ensure that pulling never results in a reward. If your dog pulls you towards an interesting smell, that scent effectively becomes a reward for pulling. You must consistently stop the pulling behavior rather than sporadically allowing it. If you occasionally give in when your dog pulls hard enough, you inadvertently teach them to pull harder next time. From day one, pulling must never lead to your dog getting what they want. Dogs learn best with consistent training; reinforce that good things happen when they walk politely, not when they pull.
- Start in a Low-Distraction Environment: It is critical to begin training in an environment where your dog can be successful. You want ample opportunities to reward your dog for doing things right. I always recommend starting your first session inside your home, where distractions are minimal.
- Reward Lavishly: You are asking your dog to learn a difficult skill, so reward their efforts generously! If you feel like a “Pez dispenser” with treats during loose leash walking training, you’re doing it correctly! Ensure you have a good supply of high-value treats (pre-broken into tiny pieces) in your treat pouch for every session. Use these treats to clearly communicate to your dog when they are doing a fantastic job. To prevent overfeeding, you can slightly reduce the amount of food given at regular mealtimes during intensive training periods. The treats will eventually be phased out, but don’t rush this process.
Various dog training essentials including a treat pouch, clicker, and a sturdy leash, laid out for a successful training session
What You’ll Need:
- A well-fitting collar or harness (front-clip harnesses are often excellent for reducing pulling)
- A standard 6-foot leash (avoid retractable leashes)
- High-value training treats (small, soft, and enticing)
- A treat pouch or bag for easy access
- Patience and a positive attitude!
Teaching Your Dog to Heel
Get Yourself Ready
Start with your dog on a leash, in a sit position on your left side. Hold a small handful of treats in your left hand and the leash in your right. Remember to deliver treats with your left hand to prevent your dog from learning to cut in front of you for rewards. The leash should always remain loose. Your dog will be learning to pace themselves, rather than you holding them in place.
Choose a Movement Phrase
Decide on a consistent phrase you will use to signal the start of movement. I personally use “Let’s go!”, but feel free to choose any phrase that suits you.
Get Your Dog’s Attention
Ask your dog to focus on you, and immediately reward them with a treat when they make eye contact.
Begin Training
Say your chosen movement phrase (e.g., “Let’s go!”). Use the treat in your left hand as a lure, holding it just in front of your dog’s nose to encourage them to stay at your side. Take three steps with your dog beside you, and then reward them with a treat. Once your dog begins to understand this game, start adding the word “Heel” as you initiate walking.
Practice and Progress
Dedicate time to practicing this! Gradually work towards being able to take 10 steps in a perfect heel. Once your dog can consistently perform 10 steps successfully a few times in a row, they are likely ready to move your training sessions outside to your yard.
Remember: every time you increase the distraction level, you need to take a step back in difficulty.
Move Outside
Since you’ve moved outside, where there are new smells and sounds, return to luring for three steps and then offering a treat. As this becomes easy for your dog, slowly increase the number of steps back to 10.
Phase Out the Lure
Once your dog has mastered 10 steps in your yard, it’s time to stop using the treat as a continuous lure in front of their nose. Instead, reward your dog for sitting politely beside you, then say “Let’s go!” followed by “Heel.” Gradually try to increase the number of steps you can take with your dog maintaining a perfect heel position. If you sense your dog losing focus, talk to them to keep their attention. Reward your dog every time they make eye contact with you. Aim to keep your dog in a heel for a full minute between treats.
Consistent Practice
If your dog is accustomed to pulling, you’ll likely need to spend several days practicing heeling in your yard. They are learning a brand new skill, and behavior change takes time. I suggest keeping training sessions short (around 20 minutes, twice a day) to prevent both you and your dog from becoming overwhelmed or frustrated.
If your dog tries to sniff or pulls sideways while heeling, say “Leave it” and apply the slightest amount of leash pressure (as practiced in foundational skills) to gently guide them back to your side. Reward them every time they return to your desired position. Remember, pulling should never lead to your dog getting what they want.
If your dog tries to pull ahead of you, say “Let’s go!” and immediately turn to walk in the opposite direction. Reward them when they follow you! This teaches your dog that they need to stay attentive and near you. Reinforce that you might change direction at any second, and good things happen when they stick with you.
I don’t recommend adding loose leash walking until your dog can consistently perform a one-minute heel. Learning two new skills simultaneously can be mentally taxing for your dog, so focus on mastering one first. Between heeling sessions, allow for sniff and play breaks to keep training fun and engaging.
Once your dog can easily heel for a minute in your yard, slowly progress the distraction levels of your walking environment. Start with a quiet street or path without other dogs (the new smells will be distracting enough). When increasing distractions, always take a step back in other aspects of difficulty. I typically suggest returning to rewarding your dog every 10 steps in each new environment. Your dog will likely adapt more quickly in successive new settings, so adjust the pace of difficulty based on their progress. Once your dog can heel for a minute in various settings, you are ready to incorporate loose leash walking instead of just stationary sniff/play breaks.
Teaching Your Dog to Loose Leash Walk
Once your dog has learned the basic rules of heeling, it’s time to introduce loose leash walking!
Again, I define loose leash walking as the dog being allowed to go anywhere within the boundaries of their leash without tension. If I cannot easily hold the leash with one finger, it’s not loose leash walking. There should be absolutely no leash tension. If your dog wants to sniff during loose leash walking, stop and let them! While pulling is never allowed, loose leash walking provides the freedom for a dog to explore and enjoy their environment. Walks should be enjoyable for your dog too.
How to Teach Your Dog to Loose Leash Walk:
- Have your dog sit at your left side. Say “Let’s go” to initiate movement, then immediately follow it with “Okay!” and point forward. Your dog might hesitate slightly, as they are accustomed to heeling. Keep walking, allowing your dog to slowly move away from your side within the leash’s limits.
- If they stop to sniff something, let them! If the sniffing lasts too long and you wish to continue, say their name followed by either “Let’s go” or “Leave it,” and reward them with a treat when they start walking again.
- It’s valuable to practice transitioning between heeling and loose leash walking. While your dog is learning, make it easier by having them sit between transitions. “Let’s go” always signals movement, while “Heel” or “Okay” communicates the boundaries of where they should walk. Consistency in your verbal cues is incredibly important for dogs.
Your dog will be enticed by more smells and greater freedom during loose leash walking, so remember that this can be a difficult skill to learn.
A Few Tips:
- Maintain the No-Pulling Policy: You must maintain a strict no-pulling policy. Be vigilant not to accidentally reinforce pulling by letting your dog drag you towards a desirable smell. Dogs earn their freedom on walks by consistently being polite on the leash.
- Encourage Check-Ins: You want your dog to want to check in with you and be aware of your location. You should notice them looking up at you more frequently, especially after practicing “focus” and heeling. Keep this going! Give your dog a treat every time they make eye contact with you without being prompted.
- Observe Body Language: Pay close attention to your dog’s body language during loose leash walking. Most dogs have a “tell” just before they start to pull. You might notice their eyes lock onto something, their ears point forward intently, or their body stiffens. If you observe these signs, say “Let’s go!” and turn in the opposite direction before they even begin to pull. Reward your dog for following you in the new direction. The most effective time to address pulling is before it even happens.
- Manage Distractions: If an unexpected distraction arises during training, try to create distance between it and your dog. This could mean crossing the road if you see another dog approaching, or simply turning around to walk in the opposite direction. If your dog seems highly distracted and overwhelmed, have them sit and practice “focus” work, rewarding every instance of eye contact. Sometimes, your dog simply needs a short break to reset. If your dog is prone to anxiety when crated, this management of external stressors can also help prevent issues like
[my dog escapes his crate](https://dogcarestory.com/my-dog-escapes-his-crate/)by reducing overall stress levels. - Troubleshooting “Irresistible” Smells: If there’s a particular spot that smells so amazing your dog can’t help but pull towards it, tell them “Leave it” and use a treat to redirect them in a different direction. Then, try passing that spot again. If they still can’t resist pulling, instead put them into a “Heel” and use a treat to lure them past. It’s perfectly okay to make mistakes, but never reward pulling by giving in.
- Slow and Steady Progress: Slowly increase the time and distraction levels of where your dog is loose leash walking. Remember to build up the skill gradually! You want to create numerous opportunities to reward your dog for making the right choices. For owners who are also considering advanced training like
[train your dog as a therapy dog](https://dogcarestory.com/train-your-dog-as-a-therapy-dog/), mastering loose leash walking is a foundational step, as therapy dogs require impeccable manners in varied environments. Additionally, ensuring your dog is comfortable with appropriate outdoor behavior, even when it comes to basic needs, is crucial, which ties into understanding[how do i train my dog to go outside](https://dogcarestory.com/how-do-i-train-my-dog-to-go-outside/).
A visual step-by-step guide illustrating various stages of loose leash walking training for dogs, from basic positioning to advanced outdoor walks
Both You & Your Dog Deserve Enjoyable Walks
Undoing the ingrained behavior of pulling on the leash can take time and consistent effort, but it is unequivocally worth it. Imagine the profound satisfaction of confidently taking your dog on a walk, free from pulling, in just one month. How truly amazing would that transformation be for both of you?
I encourage you to embrace this positive training journey. The bond you build and the peaceful walks you will share are among the greatest joys of having a dog. If you find yourself in need of exceptionally durable equipment, especially for stronger dogs, exploring [crates dogs can t break out of](https://dogcarestory.com/crates-dogs-can-t-break-out-of/) might offer insights into robust pet product design, though it’s separate from leash training.
Happy training!
