How to Train Your Dog Not to Pull on Its Leash: A Comprehensive Guide to Enjoyable Walks

Sled dogs demonstrating strong pulling behavior on a snowy trail with leashes attached

One of the greatest joys of owning a dog is taking walks together. However, this pleasure quickly diminishes when your dog pulls you along like a sled in a race they are determined to win. If you wish walks didn’t feel like an unpleasant version of “Red Light/Green Light,” then your dog needs to master loose leash walking skills!

Sled dogs demonstrating strong pulling behavior on a snowy trail with leashes attachedSled dogs demonstrating strong pulling behavior on a snowy trail with leashes attached

Teaching your dog not to pull on its leash is one of the most challenging behaviors for them to learn, as they aren’t born with an innate understanding of polite walking. Loose leash walking is also one of the most common issues dog owners seek help for, and it’s completely understandable; being pulled can be incredibly frustrating!

Walking your dog should be an enjoyable time for both of you, but this is impossible when you’re constantly being dragged down the street. As a dedicated positive reinforcement trainer, I have successfully taught countless dogs to walk politely on a loose leash, even those who initially pulled with all their might. I can assure you that with patience, every dog can learn to be a pleasant walking companion.

Even better, you can teach your dog not to pull using positive methods only. I never advocate for the use of choke chains, shock collars, or other aversive tools. If you wouldn’t use something on a toddler, I believe you shouldn’t use it on your dog.

There is a lot of incorrect information suggesting that a dog pulls on its leash to show dominance or control. These claims are entirely false. All pulling means is that your dog has not been taught polite boundaries, and they are currently more focused on the environment around them than on you. This is a normal canine behavior! It’s our responsibility as owners to teach our dogs what we expect from them during walks.

Unfortunately, these common misconceptions have led people to believe their dogs are “being bad” when they pull, causing many owners to lose patience and resort to punishing their dogs for pulling. I have witnessed trainers suggest punishments ranging from mildly aversive techniques to outright animal abuse. As a positive trainer, I oppose all such methods. I want you to know that you can absolutely 100% get your dog to walk nicely using positive training methods.

Fair warning: this article is intentionally thorough and detailed. I often find myself disappointed when reading other trainers’ articles on teaching loose leash walking. Many quickly suggest “5 steps to make your dog stop pulling” or similar simplified guides. I never felt these steps were comprehensive enough for a dog owner to actually follow and achieve success with loose leash walking. They simply weren’t detailed enough to be truly helpful.

So, I wrote my own!

Consider this a comprehensive guide to everything you need to know about teach a dog to walk on a leash without pulling. Enjoyable walks with your dog are one of the best ways to bond, and I want everyone to experience that joy. I strongly suggest reading the entire article and not skipping sections! Every part is written for a reason and works together to help you solve your dog’s pulling behavior.

A brindle bulldog pulling hard on its leash, leaning forward with determinationA brindle bulldog pulling hard on its leash, leaning forward with determination

What We Will Cover in This Guide

  • Why dogs pull on the leash (Hint: It’s not dominance or them being a “jerk”).
  • How dogs learn and the training options available to you.
  • Three essential skills to teach your dog before starting loose leash walking (these will save your arms!).
  • The difference between “heeling” and “loose leash walking.”
  • Step-by-step training: Teaching your dog to heel and loose leash walk.
  • Troubleshooting tips for common issues you may encounter.

Why Does My Dog Pull on Its Leash?

Despite common beliefs, your dog pulling on the leash has nothing to do with dominance, control, or any notion of them being a “jerk.” The real reasons are much simpler:

1. Insufficient Exercise

Most dogs do not receive sufficient exercise for their breed, resulting in a surplus of energy to burn. For many dogs, their typical 30-minute walk is their only opportunity for physical activity that day, which is often simply not enough. It’s unreasonable to expect your dog to walk politely beside you if they have tons of pent-up energy.

For success, ensure your dog is adequately tired out before you begin loose leash training. Consider letting them run off-leash, chase a ball or frisbee, or visit a dog park. If you lack the time for daily exercise, consider hiring a dog walker or enrolling them in doggy daycare. Providing adequate exercise is a fundamental part of responsible dog ownership. Research your dog’s breed to ensure you are truly meeting their needs before expecting specific behaviors from them.

2. Humans Are Slow

Most dogs naturally walk faster than their human companions. Imagine taking a turtle for a walk; at some point, you’d likely get bored and want to move faster, right? To dogs, we are often the “turtles.”

Recognize that slowing down their natural pace is difficult for dogs. Be empathetic to the significant effort this will require from your dog and how unnatural it feels to them. Can they learn? Absolutely.

3. Outside Smells Are Irresistible

Let’s consider a human analogy. Imagine you’re spending time with a friend when your phone buzzes. Wouldn’t you be tempted to glance at it, even if you know it’s rude to be on your phone during a social interaction? Or, how difficult would it be to work at your desk if a highly enjoyable TV show was playing on a screen nearby? Would you get distracted and start watching the show instead of working?

For dogs, the sights and smells of the outdoors are equally, if not more, distracting during the “job” of walking politely. On average, dogs have 50 times the number of scent receptors and 40 times more brain space dedicated to processing smells than humans do. We can’t even comprehend it, but dogs can detect scents diluted to 1-2 parts per trillion.

What appears to you as a simple patch of grass is, to a dog, a world of intricate and fascinating scents – pure “nose bliss.”

A dog on a leash intensely sniffing a patch of grass, absorbed in outdoor scentsA dog on a leash intensely sniffing a patch of grass, absorbed in outdoor scents

This intense sensitivity to scent also means that sniffing can be a powerful reward for dogs, as it is inherently enjoyable. If your dog has been pulling you towards interesting smells for months or years, understand that this pulling behavior has been consistently rewarded (by gaining access to the smell). It will take time and new, consistent rewards to change that ingrained behavior.

How Do Dogs Learn?

For a deep dive into canine cognition and learning, you can explore resources on how dogs learn. In basic terms, there are two primary ways to train a dog:

  1. Reward desired behaviors: Reinforce actions you want your dog to repeat (e.g., giving a treat for walking nicely or making eye contact).
  2. Punish unwanted behaviors: Use aversive methods to stop behaviors you don’t want (e.g., using a prong collar when the dog pulls).

As a positive reinforcement trainer, I believe it’s our responsibility to clearly teach our dogs what we do want from them. I strongly dislike training methods that rely on punishing a dog until they guess what we expect. Can you imagine learning that way from your parents or your boss? How stressed would you be? It is your responsibility to proactively teach your dog your expectations.

Punishment-based techniques emphasize what not to do, while positive training teaches dogs what to do.

If you want to teach your dog not to pull on its leash, you need to begin in an environment where they can be successful. Why? Because there must be opportunities for you to reward them! For many dogs, this means starting loose leash training inside the home, where distractions are minimal.

It can be difficult to fully grasp how the training environment affects your dog’s ability to perform. Let’s use an example: Do you know how to say your ABCs? Of course!

  • If I asked you to recite the ABCs in your head right now, you could likely do it. That’s comparable to asking your dog to heel indoors – minimal distraction.
  • Now, if I asked you to tell your spouse or child the ABCs, it might be a little awkward, but you could still do it. This is similar to asking your dog to heel in your backyard – comfortable, but with slightly more distractions.
  • But what if I put you on a stage in front of 10,000 people and asked you to sing your ABCs into a microphone? You’d probably be so overwhelmed you might forget how to speak at all! That’s the equivalent of asking your dog to walk nicely in a highly distracting environment without proper preparation.

How stressed would you feel if you were threatened with punishment for not saying your ABCs correctly in that scenario? That’s what it’s like to punish your dog for being unable to “perform” in a situation you haven’t given them time to adapt to. It’s unfair and an ineffective way to train. Do not punish your dog for having an emotional response or getting overwhelmed in a more challenging setting!

It’s also not effective positive training to place your dog in a situation where they are too overwhelmed to learn and then try to control them solely with a treat. To utilize positive reinforcement effectively, you must start in an environment where your dog can succeed. Create ample opportunities for praise and reward so they can clearly learn your expectations.

You might know how to say the ABCs, but the context of where I ask you to say them dramatically changes your chance of success. Dogs are no different. Build up the difficulty slowly and give your dog every chance to cement their skills. They can absolutely learn to walk nicely in highly distracting environments, but this will not happen overnight.

Three Essential Skills to Teach Your Dog Before Loose Leash Walking

A golden retriever with focused eyes looking up at its owner, ready for a commandA golden retriever with focused eyes looking up at its owner, ready for a command

Warning: Do not skip these foundational skills and jump directly into loose leash training! These abilities will greatly assist your dog in developing impulse control and understanding the benefits of focusing on you. When you eventually begin loose leash walking in more distracting environments, these skills will be invaluable for maintaining your dog’s focus. (Hint: A focused, engaged dog is far less likely to pull!). Mastering these skills upfront will save you much frustration and sore arms.

I’ve included a brief description of why each skill is necessary below and linked to a tutorial. I recommend practicing these skills for at least a few days before starting any loose leash walking training. Get your dog thoroughly solid on them!

Sit

“Sit” is a fundamental obedience command that every dog should know. It’s particularly helpful when teaching loose leash walking as a natural transition between heel/release cues or as a brief “time-out” break in distracting environments. Learning how to teach sit to a dog provides a solid foundation for more complex behaviors.

Focus

Every dog should learn the “focus” command (often cued as “Look at me” or similar). Teaching a dog to check in with you is a crucial building block for more advanced obedience skills and strengthens your overall bond. Focus teaches your dog that wonderful things happen when they make eye contact with you, which is essential for clear communication. In distracting settings, a well-trained “focus” command can help calm your dog and redirect their attention back to you.

Leave It

“Leave it” is an absolutely essential skill. It’s incredibly useful during distraction training, such as loose leash walking, but it can also literally save your dog’s life. Puppies and dogs are notorious for trying to gobble up random, potentially dangerous things they find on the ground. A solid “leave it” command can prevent your dog from ingesting something toxic or harmful. You want to be able to communicate to your dog to ignore something without needing to physically restrain them. “Leave it” is essentially a promise to your dog: if they do not grab or engage with the tempting item, you will provide them with something even more amazing instead.

The Difference Between Heeling and Loose Leash Walking

The challenge with discussing loose leash walking is that everyone defines it differently. In my opinion, there are two distinct ways I walk a dog: in a perfect heel or on a loose leash. I like and suggest utilizing both approaches!

Heeling

To me, heeling means the dog walks precisely at your side without falling behind or advancing past your knee. I personally prefer dogs walking on my left side, and that is what I teach. My expectations and boundaries during a heel are much stricter than during loose leash walking. I want the dog to be exactly at my left side, matching my pace. During a heel, I do not permit sniff breaks or greetings with other dogs.

If that sounds incredibly strict, you’re right! It absolutely is. Teaching your dog to heel is an excellent way to establish clear boundaries and expectations while the dog is learning. It has very explicit rules, which dogs often understand quickly. While teaching your dog not to pull on its leash, I suggest incorporating “heel” approximately 50% of the time. It communicates clear boundaries and rules to the dog. Once a dog is fully trained, I would suggest maintaining a strict heel about 10% of the time or less. It’s a valuable skill for navigating busy sidewalks or other highly distracting environments where the dog needs to “behave.” It’s too strict for full-time use, but it’s a valuable skill to learn and maintain.

However, I also believe that walks should be fun for the dog! As your dog becomes more trained, you should increase the amount of time they are walked with a loose leash rather than in a perfect heel. Loose leash walking allows them the freedom to sniff and simply “be a dog”! Remember, the walk should be just as much for your dog as it is for you.

Loose Leash Walking

Once a dog is trained to heel, I suggest transitioning to loose leash walking the majority of the time. I recommend using a 6-foot leash for walks. You want a leash long enough that your dog has freedom and the ability to sniff. Let them be a dog! However, I strongly advise against retractable leashes!

So, what exactly is loose leash walking?

I define loose leash walking as my dog’s ability to go wherever they want within the boundaries of the 6-foot leash. There should be no pressure or leash pulling whatsoever; otherwise, they are free to roam. If the dog wants to sniff something and does so politely (without pulling), I stop and allow them! Sniffing is a healthy and normal activity for a dog. However, if the sniff lasts an extended period and I wish to continue walking, I expect the dog to rejoin me with just a verbal cue. Neither you nor your dog should be pulling each other.

Training Your Dog to Heel and Loose Leash Walk Using Positive Reinforcement

Training your dog to heel or loose leash walk requires patience, but it is incredibly rewarding. Being able to get lost in your thoughts and relax on walks is a wonderful thing, and I sincerely want that for you. I believe you can achieve it! I have helped countless dog owners teach a dog to walk on a leash without pulling.

Every dog has the capacity to walk politely on a leash; they simply need time to learn! Your goal is to build an association that awesome things happen to your dog when they are close and paying attention to you on walks. We use treats to condition this behavior. Eventually, treats can be phased out (or at least dramatically reduced), and your dog will continue to walk nicely. I rarely bring treats on walks with my dog anymore, yet she consistently chooses to check in with me.

Important Considerations for Teaching Loose Leash Walking

  • Gradual Progression of Distraction: We will progress the distraction level slowly. It may take a few weeks before you can take your dog on a “real walk” rather than purely a training walk. During this time, I suggest exercising them with fetch, visits to dog parks, or backyard play instead. Ensure your dog is sufficiently exercised; otherwise, asking them to walk nicely is unfair to them. You might also want to learn about how to get my dog to go outside to manage their outdoor time effectively.

  • Consistent No-Pulling Policy: It is critical that from the day you decide to start teaching your dog not to pull, that behavior stops being rewarded. This means pulling never results in something good for them. Remember, if they pull you to sniff something, that scent is a reward for pulling. You must commit to completely stopping pulling rather than sporadically accepting it. If you give in when your dog pulls hard enough, it only teaches them to pull harder for what they want next time. From day one of training onwards, pulling can never result in the dog getting what they want. Dogs learn best with consistent training! Reinforce that good things happen with polite walking instead of pulling.

  • Start in a Success-Oriented Environment: It’s crucial to begin in an environment where your dog can be successful. You want ample opportunities to reward the dog for doing things right. I always suggest starting the first session inside the house, where distractions are minimal.

  • Lavish Rewards: You are asking your dog to learn a difficult skill, so reward them lavishly for their efforts! If you feel like a Pez dispenser with treats while teaching your dog loose leash walking, then you are doing it correctly! Ensure you have a good supply of treats in your treat bag for every session (I typically pre-break them into tiny pieces). Use treats to let your dog know when they are doing a great job! You can avoid overfeeding your dog by slightly decreasing the amount of food given at meals while they are in intensive training. The treats will eventually be weaned, but ensure they are not phased out too quickly!

A hand holding small training treats, ready to reward a dogA hand holding small training treats, ready to reward a dog

What You’ll Need:

  • A comfortable, well-fitting flat collar or harness (front-clip harnesses are often very helpful for managing pulling).
  • A standard 6-foot leash (avoid retractable leashes).
  • High-value training treats (small, soft, and irresistible to your dog).
  • A treat pouch for easy access to rewards.

Teaching Your Dog to Heel

Prepare Yourself and Your Dog: Start with your dog on leash, sitting calmly at your left side. Hold a small supply of treats in your left hand and the leash in your right. Remember to deliver treats with your left hand so that your dog doesn’t learn to cut in front of you for a reward. The leash should always remain loose! Your dog will be learning to pace themselves, rather than you holding them in place.

Choose a Movement Phrase: Decide on a clear phrase you will use to ask your dog to start moving. I personally use “Let’s go!”, but choose whatever phrase suits you best.

Get Your Dog’s Attention: Ask your dog to focus on you, and reward them with a treat when they do.

Begin the Heel: Say your chosen movement phrase (e.g., “Let’s go!”) and use the treat hand as a lure in front of your dog’s nose to keep them right at your side. Take 3 steps with them by your side, then reward with a treat. Once you feel like your dog is understanding the game, start saying “Heel” as you begin walking.

Practice and Progress: Spend dedicated time practicing this! Work up to being able to take 10 steps in a perfect heel consistently. Once your dog is solid on 10 steps a few times in a row, they are likely ready to move outside to the yard.

Every time you increase the distraction level, you need to take a step back in difficulty.

Move Outside: Remember, you want your dog to be successful! Since you’ve moved outside, go back to luring for 3 steps, then offering a treat. When this seems easy for your dog, slowly increase to 10 steps again.

Phase Out the Lure: Once your dog has mastered 10 steps outdoors, it’s time to stop constantly luring them with treats in front of their nose! Reward your dog for sitting next to you, then say “Let’s go!” and “Heel.” Gradually try to increase the number of steps you can take with your dog in a perfect heel position. If you sense your dog is losing focus, try talking to them to keep their attention. You want to reward your dog for checking in with you, so offer a treat every time they make eye contact. Aim to work up to being able to keep your dog in a heel for a full minute between treats.

Practice Consistently! If your dog is accustomed to pulling you on the leash, you will likely need to spend a few days practicing heeling exclusively in your yard. They are learning a brand new skill.

Remember to progress slowly! Behavior change is hard and takes time.

I suggest keeping training sessions short (around 20 minutes, twice a day) so that neither you nor your dog becomes overwhelmed or frustrated.

If your dog tries to sniff or pulls sideways while they are heeling, say “Leave it” and use the slightest amount of leash pressure (like you practiced in basic leash handling) to gently guide them back to you. Reward them every time they return to your side. Remember, pulling no longer gets your dog what they want.

If they try to pull in front of you, say “Let’s go” and immediately turn to walk in the opposite direction. Reward them when they come with you! This will help your dog understand they need to be next to you and paying attention. Teach your dog that you might change direction at any second, and amazing things happen when they follow.

I don’t suggest adding in loose leash walking until your dog has mastered one full minute of heeling consistently. It takes more effort and mental capacity for your dog to learn two skills at once, so just focus on heeling for now! Take sniff and play breaks between heeling sessions to keep the training fun.

Once your dog has mastered a minute of heeling easily in your yard, slowly progress the distraction levels of where you are walking. Start by taking them to a quiet street or path without other dogs (the new smells will be distracting enough). Remember, when you increase the level of distraction, take a step back in other areas of difficulty. I usually suggest reverting to rewarding your dog for 10 steps with each new walking environment. Your dog will likely learn quicker and quicker in each new setting, so increase the difficulty at their pace. Once your dog can heel for a minute, you are ready to incorporate loose leash walking instead of stationary sniff/play breaks.

Teaching Your Dog to Loose Leash Walk

Once your dog has learned the basic rules of heeling, it’s time to add in loose leash walking!

Again, I define loose leash walking as the dog being allowed to go anywhere within the boundaries of their leash. If I cannot easily hold the leash with one finger, I don’t consider it loose leash walking. There should be absolutely no leash tension!

If your dog wants to sniff something during loose leash walking, stop and let them! I do not allow pulling, but otherwise, loose leash walking provides the freedom for a dog to explore. Walks should be enjoyable for your dog too.

How to teach your dog to loose leash walk:

Have your dog sit at your left side. Again, say “Let’s go” to initiate movement, then immediately follow it with “Ok!” and point in front of you. Your dog will likely hesitate a bit since they are used to heeling. Keep walking and allow your dog to slowly move away from you. If they stop to sniff something, let them! If the sniff lasts too long, say their name followed by either “Let’s go” or “Leave it,” and reward them with a treat when they start walking again.

It’s valuable to practice transitioning between heeling and loose leash walking. While the dog is learning, I make it easier by having them sit calmly between transitions. “Let’s go” always tells the dog I want movement, then “Heel” or “Ok” communicates the boundaries of where they should walk. Consistency is incredibly important for dogs, so make sure you use your words properly.

Your dog will be enticed by more smells and freedom during loose leash walking, so keep in mind that it can be a difficult skill to learn.

A Few Tips for How to Train Your Dog Not to Pull on Its Leash:

  • Maintain a Strict No-Pulling Policy: You still want to have a no-pulling allowed policy. Be careful not to accidentally reinforce pulling by letting your dog drag you to a smell. Dogs earn their freedom on walks by being polite on the leash.
  • Encourage Check-ins: You want your dog to want to check in with you and maintain awareness of your location. You should notice them looking up at you more since practicing “focus” and heeling. Keep that going! Give your dog a treat every time they make eye contact with you without being cued.
  • Watch Body Language: Observe your dog’s body language carefully while loose leash walking. Most dogs have a “tell” before they pull. You can often see their eyes lock onto something or their ears point downwards. If you notice these cues, say “Let’s go!” and turn in the opposite direction before they pull you. Reward your dog for following you in the new direction! The best time to correct pulling is before it even happens.
  • Manage Distractions: If a distraction unexpectedly appears during training, try to create distance between it and your dog. This could mean crossing the road if you see another dog or turning to walk in the opposite direction. If your dog seems very distracted, get them to sit and practice “focus” work (with a treat for every focus). Sometimes your dog just needs a break! You may also find insights from articles on how to train my dog to stop jumping on people or how to make a dog stop jumping useful, as distraction management is key to all polite behaviors.
  • “Leave It” for Irresistible Spots: If you find a spot that smells so amazing your dog can’t help but pull towards it, tell them to “Leave it” and use a treat to switch directions. Then, turn and try again! If they still can’t help but pull towards it the second time, instead put them into a “Heel” and use a treat to lure them past. It’s okay to make mistakes; just don’t reward pulling by giving in.
  • Increase Difficulty Gradually: Slowly increase the time and distraction levels of where your dog is loose leash walking. Remember: build up the skill slowly! You want opportunities to reward the dog for making the right choices.

You and Your Dog Deserve Enjoyable Walks Together

It can take time to undo the ingrained behavior of pulling on the leash, but it is well worth the effort. Just imagine: in one month, you could be confidently taking your dog on a walk with no pulling! How amazing would that be?

Please let me know in the comments below when you’ve had success with teaching your dog loose leash walking!

Happy training!

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