Walking your dog should be one of life’s simple pleasures, a time for bonding and shared exploration. Yet, for many dog owners, this idyllic vision is shattered by a common frustration: a dog that pulls relentlessly on the leash. If your daily walks feel less like a stroll and more like a competitive sled race, it’s time to learn effective strategies on How To Train A Dog Not To Pull When Walking. This comprehensive guide will equip you with positive, humane methods to transform your pulling pup into a pleasant walking companion.
It’s true that teaching a dog not to pull on the leash is one of the more challenging behaviors to instill, primarily because dogs aren’t born with an innate understanding of polite leash manners. The good news is that with patience and consistent positive reinforcement, every dog can learn to walk nicely by your side, allowing both of you to enjoy your outings. As a trainer who firmly believes in positive methods, this guide will never suggest aversive tools like choke chains or shock collars. If it’s not suitable for a toddler, it’s not suitable for your dog.
Many misconceptions surround leash pulling, with some wrongly attributing it to dominance or a dog trying to assert control. In reality, a dog pulling simply means they haven’t been taught polite boundaries and are currently more captivated by their environment than by you. This is completely normal! It’s our responsibility to clearly teach them what we expect during walks. Unfortunately, these myths often lead to owners losing patience and punishing their dogs for pulling, which is counterproductive and harmful. Rest assured, you can absolutely and effectively get your dog to walk politely using positive training techniques, creating a much more enjoyable experience for both of you.
This article is designed to be thorough, addressing all aspects of why dogs pull and providing actionable steps to help you overcome this common challenge. Think of it as your go-to resource for everything you need to know about teaching your dog exemplary leash manners. I strongly encourage you to read the entire guide, as each section builds upon the last to provide a holistic solution to your dog’s pulling habits.
Two husky-like dogs enthusiastically pulling a leash forward, symbolizing strong pulling behavior
Why Does My Dog Pull on Leash?
Contrary to popular belief, your dog pulling on the leash has nothing to do with dominance, control, or any notion of them being “naughty.” The actual reasons are far simpler and rooted in their natural instincts and environment. Understanding these underlying causes is the first step in addressing the behavior.
1. Not Enough Exercise
A significant number of dogs don’t receive enough exercise for their breed, leading to a surplus of pent-up energy. For many, a 30-minute walk is their only opportunity to burn energy that day—and often, it’s simply not enough. It’s unrealistic to expect a dog bursting with energy to walk calmly beside you. To set your dog up for success when learning how to train a dog not to pull when walking, ensure they are sufficiently tired before training sessions. This might involve off-leash running, playing fetch with a ball or frisbee, or a trip to a dog park. If your schedule doesn’t permit this, consider hiring a dog walker or enrolling them in doggy daycare. Meeting your dog’s breed-specific exercise needs is a crucial aspect of responsible dog ownership.
2. Humans Are Slow
Dogs naturally walk at a faster pace than humans. Imagine trying to walk a turtle—eventually, you’d want to speed up, right? To a dog, we are often the “turtle.” It’s inherently difficult for them to slow down their natural gait. Acknowledge the significant effort required for your dog to adjust their pace to yours, as it goes against their instincts. While challenging, they can absolutely learn to do it with consistent training.
3. Outside Smells Amazing
For dogs, the outdoor environment is a sensory wonderland, particularly when it comes to smells. Dogs possess an astonishing number of scent receptors—up to 50 times more than humans—and devote substantially more brain space to processing these odors. They can detect scents diluted to parts per trillion, a level of sensitivity we can barely comprehend. What appears to you as a mundane patch of grass is, to your dog, an intoxicating “nose bliss.”
This profound connection to scent means that sniffing can be an incredibly rewarding activity for dogs. If your dog has consistently pulled you towards interesting smells for months or even years, they have effectively been rewarded for that pulling behavior. Changing this ingrained habit will require time, patience, and new, equally compelling rewards to redirect their focus.
How Do Dogs Learn?
Understanding how dogs learn is fundamental to effective training, especially when tackling a behavior like pulling on the leash. There are primarily two approaches to dog training:
- Reward desired behaviors: This involves reinforcing actions you want your dog to repeat, such as offering a treat when they walk nicely or make eye contact with you.
- Punish unwanted behaviors: This method seeks to stop behaviors through aversive techniques, like using a prong collar when a dog pulls.
As a positive reinforcement trainer, I believe it is our ethical responsibility to clearly teach our dogs what we want them to do, rather than punishing them until they “guess” the correct behavior. Imagine if your parents or boss expected you to learn a new skill this way—the stress and confusion would be immense. Positive training emphasizes what to do, fostering a better understanding and a stronger bond with your dog.
To successfully teach your dog not to pull, you must start in an environment where they can be successful. This means creating opportunities for them to perform the desired behavior so you can reward it. For many dogs, the initial loose leash training sessions should begin inside your home, where distractions are minimal.
Think about learning your ABCs. You can likely recite them perfectly in your head right now (minimal distraction, easy). Now, imagine doing it in your backyard (slightly more distraction). Finally, picture yourself on a stage in front of 10,000 people, asked to sing your ABCs into a microphone—most of us would be overwhelmed and forget everything! This escalation of distraction perfectly illustrates a dog’s learning curve. Asking your dog to walk politely amidst a bustling park on day one is like asking someone to perform on stage without prior practice.
It is crucial not to punish your dog for struggling in a highly distracting environment. This isn’t fair and hinders effective training. Similarly, attempting positive reinforcement in an overwhelmingly distracting setting where your dog cannot focus will also be ineffective. To apply positive reinforcement successfully, you need to begin in an environment where your dog can succeed, allowing ample opportunities for praise and reward, solidifying their understanding of your expectations. By gradually increasing the difficulty and distraction levels, you give your dog the best chance to solidify their skills. Learning how to train a dog not to pull when walking in highly distracting environments is achievable, but it’s a journey, not an overnight transformation.
3 Things to Teach Your Dog BEFORE Starting Loose Leash Walking
Before diving into loose leash walking exercises, it’s imperative to teach your dog three foundational skills. Skipping these vital steps can lead to frustration and slower progress. These skills will significantly boost your dog’s impulse control and teach them the immense value of focusing on you. When you eventually transition to more distracting environments, a dog proficient in these commands will be far more engaged and, consequently, less likely to pull. Mastering these will truly save your arms and your patience!
I recommend practicing these skills for at least a few days, ensuring your dog is solid on them, BEFORE commencing any specific loose leash walking training.
A dog and owner practicing focus during training, emphasizing eye contact and engagement with the owner
Sit
The “sit” command is a fundamental obedience skill that every dog should know. Beyond its basic utility, it becomes incredibly helpful in the context of leash training. It can serve as a natural transition point between heel and free-walking, or as a convenient “time-out” break in overly stimulating environments. A reliable “sit” gives you a quick way to gain your dog’s attention and momentary composure.
Focus
Teaching your dog a “focus” command is an essential building block for all advanced obedience and, crucially, for strengthening your bond. This command teaches your dog that looking at you results in wonderful things. Consistent eye contact is paramount for clear communication between you and your dog. In distracting situations, a well-trained “focus” command can effectively calm your dog, redirect their attention back to you, and make them much more receptive to your cues, directly helping with how to train a dog not to pull when walking.
Leave It
The “leave it” command is not just useful for distraction training; it can literally be a life-saving skill. Puppies and dogs are notorious for trying to ingest random, potentially dangerous items they find on the ground. A solid “leave it” allows you to communicate to your dog to ignore something without needing physical restraint. This command is essentially a promise: if they don’t engage with the tempting item, you’ll reward them with something even better. This skill is particularly valuable during walks, helping to manage their curiosity without resorting to pulling.
The Difference Between Heeling and Loose Leash Walking
One of the challenges in discussing loose leash walking is the varied definitions people have for it. In my experience, there are two distinct modes of walking a dog: a perfect heel and a loose leash walk. Both have their merits, and I advocate for using both in your training.
Heeling
For me, “heeling” means the dog walks precisely at your side, without falling behind or moving ahead of your knee. I personally teach dogs to walk on my left side. The expectations and boundaries for heeling are far stricter than for loose leash walking. In a heel, the dog is expected to maintain pace with you, and sniff breaks or greetings with other dogs are not permitted.
While this might sound incredibly strict, it is! However, teaching your dog to heel is an excellent way to establish clear boundaries and expectations during the learning phase. The rules are unambiguous, and dogs often grasp them quickly. When you’re actively working on how to train a dog not to pull when walking, I suggest incorporating “heel” approximately 50% of the time. This clear communication helps the dog understand the rules. Once fully trained, you might use a strict heel about 10% of the time or less. It’s an invaluable skill for navigating busy sidewalks or highly distracting environments where precise control is necessary, but it’s too restrictive for all-day use.
The video below showcases a dog named Kiki, who initially pulled so intensely her owners feared walking her in winter. Through positive training, she learned to heel beautifully in about a week. Positive reinforcement truly works!
https://vimeo.com/645569975/a8e875ce90
However, I firmly believe that walks should also be enjoyable for the dog. As your dog becomes more proficient, you should gradually increase the amount of time spent in loose leash walking rather than a perfect heel. Loose leash walking provides the freedom to sniff and simply “be a dog.” Remember, the walk should be as much for your dog’s enjoyment as it is for yours.
Loose Leash Walking
Once a dog has mastered the heel, I recommend transitioning to loose leash walking for the majority of your outings. I suggest using a 6-foot leash, as it offers enough length for the dog to have freedom and sniff around. Let them explore! However, I strongly advise against retractable leashes, as they can be detrimental to teaching proper leash manners and pose safety risks.
So, what exactly is loose leash walking? I define it as my dog’s ability to explore within the full length of the 6-foot leash without any tension or pulling on the leash itself. If I can’t easily hold the leash with one finger, it’s not a loose leash walk. There should be absolutely no pressure. If your dog wants to sniff and does so politely (without pulling), I stop and allow it. Sniffing is a healthy and natural activity for dogs. If a sniff break becomes extended and I want to continue walking, I expect my dog to join me with just a verbal cue. Neither you nor your dog should be pulling each other.
Observe Kiki in this video demonstrating loose leash walking. I allow her to investigate an interesting smell, and then, without any leash tension, I cue her to walk with me again.
https://vimeo.com/645644957/8964eedaf1
Training Your Dog to Heel and Loose Leash Walk Using Positive Reinforcement
Teaching your dog to heel or loose leash walk requires patience and consistency, but the rewards are immense. Imagine the freedom of relaxing on walks, lost in your thoughts, with your dog gracefully by your side. This peace of mind is entirely achievable. Every dog has the capacity to walk nicely on a leash; they simply need the time and guidance to learn. Your goal is to build a strong association that being close to you and paying attention on walks leads to wonderful things. We use treats as a powerful conditioning tool for this. Over time, treats can be phased out or significantly reduced, and your dog will continue to choose polite walking because they’ve learned the behavior is inherently rewarding.
Important Things to Know About Teaching Loose Leash Walking:
Gradual Distraction Progression: We will slowly increase the level of distraction. It may take several weeks before your dog is ready for a “real” walk outside your training environment. During this intensive training period, ensure your dog gets sufficient exercise through fetch, dog parks, or backyard play. Expecting a dog to walk nicely without adequate exercise is unfair.
Zero Tolerance for Pulling: From the very first day you commit to teaching your dog not to pull, this behavior must never be rewarded. This means pulling should never result in them getting what they want. If they pull to sniff something, that scent is a reward for pulling. You must be completely consistent; if you occasionally give in when they pull hard enough, you’re inadvertently teaching them to pull harder next time. Good things happen only with polite walking, not with pulling. Consistency is key for dogs to learn effectively.
Start in a Success-Oriented Environment: It’s critical to begin in a setting where your dog has every opportunity to succeed. You want numerous chances to reward them for doing things right. I always recommend starting your first training session inside your home, where distractions are minimal.
Reward Lavishly: You are asking your dog to learn a complex skill, so reward their efforts generously! Don’t hesitate to use treats frequently during the initial stages of training—think of yourself as a “Pez dispenser” for treats. Keep a good supply of small, high-value treats in your treat bag. These treats are vital for communicating to your dog when they’re performing well. To avoid overfeeding, you can reduce their meal portions during intensive training periods. While treats will eventually be reduced, ensure they aren’t phased out too quickly.
A person holding a small treat bag, ready to reward a dog during positive reinforcement training
What You’ll Need:
- A comfortable harness (front-clip recommended for initial training) or a flat collar.
- A 6-foot leash (non-retractable).
- High-value treats, broken into small pieces.
- A treat pouch.
Teaching Your Dog to Heel:
1. Get Yourself Ready: Start with your dog seated on your left side, on leash. Hold a small cache of treats in your left hand and the leash in your right. Always deliver treats with your left hand to prevent your dog from cutting in front of you. The leash should remain loose; your dog is learning to regulate their pace, not to be held in place.
2. Choose a Movement Phrase: Select a consistent verbal cue to signal movement. “Let’s go!” is a common choice, but use whatever phrase you prefer.
3. Gain Attention: Ask your dog to “Focus” on you, rewarding them with a treat when they make eye contact.
4. Begin Movement: Say your chosen movement phrase (e.g., “Let’s go!”) and use the treat in your left hand as a lure, guiding it in front of your dog’s nose to keep them precisely at your side. Take 3 steps, then immediately reward with a treat. As your dog begins to understand, start adding the “Heel” cue as you initiate walking.
5. Practice: Dedicate time to practicing this. Gradually increase to 10 steps in a perfect heel. Once your dog can consistently perform 10 steps multiple times, they’re ready to move to a slightly more distracting environment, such as your backyard. Remember, every time you increase the distraction level, you need to take a step back in difficulty.
6. Move Outside: In your yard, revert to luring for 3 steps before rewarding. As this becomes easy, slowly increase to 10 steps again.
7. Phase Out the Lure: Once 10 steps are mastered, stop luring with a treat. Reward your dog for sitting by you, then say “Let’s go!” followed by “Heel.” Gradually extend the number of steps your dog can maintain a perfect heel position. If you notice their focus waning, talk to them engagingly to hold their attention. Reward them for every instance of eye contact. Aim to maintain a heel for a full minute between treats.
Practice is key! If your dog is accustomed to pulling, you’ll likely need several days of consistent heeling practice in your yard. They are acquiring a new skill. Progress slowly; behavior change takes time and effort. Keep training sessions brief (around 20 minutes, twice daily) to prevent overwhelming or frustrating either of you.
If your dog attempts to sniff or pulls sideways during heeling, calmly say “Leave it” and apply the slightest, gentle leash pressure (as if you’ve practiced separate leash pressure training) to guide them back to your side. Reward them immediately upon returning. Reinforce that pulling never leads to what they want. If they pull ahead, say “Let’s go!” and abruptly turn and walk in the opposite direction. Reward them for following you. This teaches them to remain attentive, as your direction can change instantly, and following you brings good things.
I recommend holding off on loose leash walking until your dog can consistently heel for one minute. Focusing on one skill at a time during this stage enhances learning. Between heeling sessions, allow for sniff and play breaks to keep training fun. Once your dog can easily heel for a minute in your yard, gradually increase the distraction level by moving to a quiet street or path without other dogs. Remember to decrease the difficulty when increasing distraction; return to rewarding every 10 steps in new environments. Your dog will likely learn faster in subsequent new settings, so adjust the pace to their individual progress. Once they master a minute of heeling, you’re ready to introduce loose leash walking instead of stationary breaks.
Teaching Your Dog to Loose Leash Walk:
Once your dog has grasped the fundamental rules of heeling, it’s time to integrate loose leash walking. As defined earlier, loose leash walking allows your dog to move freely within the confines of their leash, provided there is no tension or pulling. Your dog should have the freedom to be a dog, which includes sniffing, as long as it’s done politely. Walks should be enjoyable for both of you.
How to teach your dog to loose leash walk:
Have your dog sit at your left side. Say “Let’s go!” to initiate movement, immediately followed by “Ok!” while pointing forward. Your dog might hesitate, being used to heeling. Continue walking and allow them to move slightly away from you. If they stop to sniff, let them! If the sniffing lasts too long, say their name followed by “Let’s go” or “Leave it,” rewarding them when they resume walking.
Practicing transitions between heeling and loose leash walking is highly beneficial. During the learning phase, make transitions easier by having your dog sit briefly between commands. “Let’s go” signals movement, while “Heel” or “Ok” defines the boundaries of their walk. Consistency in your verbal cues is paramount for dogs to understand your expectations.
Your dog will naturally be more enticed by smells and freedom during loose leash walking, so recognize that it’s a more challenging skill to master.
A few tips for success:
- Maintain the “No Pulling” Policy: Be vigilant not to accidentally reinforce pulling by letting your dog drag you to an enticing smell. Dogs earn their freedom on walks by demonstrating polite leash manners.
- Encourage Check-ins: Thanks to your “Focus” and heeling practice, you should notice your dog looking up at you more often. Continue to reinforce this! Give your dog a treat every time they make eye contact without being prompted.
- Read Body Language: Pay close attention to your dog’s body language. Most dogs have a “tell” just before they pull, such as their eyes locking onto something or their ears perking down. If you observe these signs, say “Let’s go!” and turn in the opposite direction before they can pull you. Reward them for following your change of direction. Proactive correction is always best.
- Manage Distractions: If an unexpected distraction arises during training, create distance between your dog and the distraction. This might involve crossing the street if you see another dog or turning to walk away. If your dog seems overly distracted, have them sit and practice “Focus” (rewarding each successful focus). Sometimes, they just need a brief mental break.
- Handle Irresistible Smells: If there’s a spot with an overwhelming scent that your dog can’t resist pulling towards, tell them “Leave it” and use a treat to redirect them in another direction. Then, try passing the spot again. If they still pull, put them into a “Heel” and use a treat to lure them past. Making mistakes is part of learning, but never reward pulling by giving in.
- Gradual Progression: Slowly increase the duration and distraction levels of your loose leash walks. Build the skill gradually, always creating opportunities to reward your dog for making the right choices.
Both You & Your Dog Deserve Enjoyable Walks
It takes time and consistent effort to undo the ingrained behavior of leash pulling, but the investment is undeniably worth it. Imagine confidently taking your dog for a walk in just one month, free from constant tugging and frustration. How truly amazing would that be?
I encourage you to embrace these positive training methods. The journey to a perfectly polite walker is a rewarding one, strengthening the bond with your beloved canine companion every step of the way. Happy training!
