One of the most cherished experiences for any dog owner is a peaceful walk with their canine companion. Yet, this simple pleasure often turns into a frustrating struggle when your dog constantly pulls on the leash, transforming a leisurely stroll into an exhausting tug-of-war. If you’re tired of feeling like a sled in a race your dog is determined to win, it’s time to master the art of loose leash walking. This essential skill will not only enhance your walks but also strengthen the bond you share with your dog. If you’re seeking to prevent your dog from pulling on leash, you’ve come to the right place.
Husky dogs demonstrating pulling behavior on a leash
Teaching your dog to walk politely on a loose leash is widely considered one of the more challenging behaviors to instill, primarily because it doesn’t come naturally. Dogs aren’t born understanding human walking etiquette. It’s a common issue I’m frequently asked to address as a dog trainer, and I empathize entirely with the frustration of being constantly pulled.
Having guided countless dogs, even the most determined pullers, to become enjoyable walking partners, I can confidently assure you that with patience and the right methods, every dog can learn. Importantly, you can achieve this using positive reinforcement techniques alone. I firmly advocate against punitive tools like choke chains, prong collars, or shock collars. If you wouldn’t use it on a toddler, it’s not appropriate for your dog.
Many pervasive but incorrect beliefs suggest that a dog pulling on the leash is an attempt to display dominance or control. This is entirely false. Leash pulling simply indicates that your dog hasn’t been taught polite boundaries and is currently more engaged with the environment than with you. This is a natural instinct, and it’s our responsibility to guide them toward the walking behavior we desire. Unfortunately, these misconceptions often lead owners to lose patience and resort to punishment, which is counterproductive and harmful. As a positive trainer, I can guarantee that 100% of dogs can learn to walk nicely using positive, reward-based methods.
Consider this an extensive, comprehensive guide designed to equip you with everything you need to know about how to teach your dog not to pull on the leash. A pleasant walk is a fantastic way to bond with your dog, and my goal is for every owner to savor this experience. I strongly encourage you to read this article in its entirety to grasp the interconnectedness of these methods for solving your dog’s pulling habits. This comprehensive guide will show you how to get your dog to stop pulling you effectively.
Understanding Why Your Dog Pulls on Leash
Contrary to popular myths, your dog’s pulling behavior on the leash has nothing to do with dominance, control, or any malicious intent. The real reasons are far more straightforward and rooted in their natural instincts and environment:
1. Insufficient Exercise
Many dogs, especially those of active breeds, don’t receive nearly enough physical exercise to meet their daily energy requirements. For a significant number, their daily 30-minute walk is their primary outlet for physical activity – which is often simply not enough.
It’s unreasonable to expect a dog brimming with pent-up energy to walk calmly by your side. For successful training, ensure your dog is adequately tired before commencing loose leash walking sessions. Engage them in off-leash play, a vigorous game of fetch, or a trip to a dog park. If your schedule doesn’t permit this, consider hiring a dog walker or enrolling them in doggy daycare. Providing sufficient exercise is a fundamental aspect of responsible dog ownership. Research your dog’s breed-specific needs to ensure they are met before expecting specific behaviors from them.
2. Humans Are Just Too Slow
Dogs naturally possess a quicker pace than humans. Imagine trying to take a turtle for a walk – you’d likely grow impatient and want to accelerate at some point, right? To a dog, we are often the “turtle.”
It’s crucial to acknowledge that slowing down their natural gait is difficult for dogs. Be empathetic to the considerable effort this demands from them, as it’s an unnatural adjustment. While challenging, they can absolutely learn to match your pace.
3. The Outside World is an Aromatic Wonderland
Let’s put this into perspective. You’re with a friend, and your phone buzzes. Despite knowing it’s impolite, are you tempted to glance at it? Or, imagine trying to work at your desk with your favorite TV show playing nearby. Would you struggle to focus on your tasks?
For dogs, the sights and, especially, the smells of the outdoors are equally, if not more, distracting during the “job” of walking politely. Dogs possess an astonishing sensory world: on average, they have 50 times more scent receptors and 40 times more brain capacity dedicated to processing smells than humans do. We can barely fathom it, but dogs can detect scents diluted to parts per trillion. What appears to you as a simple patch of grass is a rich, complex “nose bliss” for your dog.
A dog sniffing intently at the ground, showcasing environmental distractions
This heightened sense of smell also means that sniffing is inherently rewarding for dogs. If your dog has been pulling you towards interesting smells for months or years, they’ve been consistently rewarded for that pulling behavior (by getting to sniff). It will require time and the introduction of new, equally compelling rewards to change this deeply ingrained behavior.
How Dogs Learn: The Power of Positive Reinforcement
Understanding how dogs learn is fundamental to effective training. Broadly, there are two primary approaches to training a dog:
- Reward desired behaviors: This involves giving your dog something they value (like a treat or praise) immediately after they perform a behavior you want them to repeat, such as walking nicely or making eye contact with you.
- Punish unwanted behaviors: This involves introducing an aversive stimulus (like a leash correction from a prong collar or a shock) when the dog exhibits a behavior you want to stop.
As a positive reinforcement trainer, I believe it’s our responsibility to clearly teach our dogs what we expect from them. I strongly disagree with training methods that rely on punishing a dog until they “guess” the desired behavior. Imagine if your parents or employer expected you to learn this way – the stress and confusion would be immense. Instead, our role is to act as clear, patient guides. Punishment-based techniques primarily convey what not to do, whereas positive training empowers dogs by teaching them what to do.
To successfully teach your dog not to pull on the leash, you must begin training in an environment where success is easily achievable. Why? Because you need ample opportunities to reward them for getting it right! For most dogs, this means starting loose leash training inside your home, where distractions are minimal.
It can be challenging to grasp how the training environment impacts your dog’s ability to perform. Consider this analogy:
Do you know your ABCs? Of course, you do. If I asked you to recite them in your head right now, you’d likely do it flawlessly. This is equivalent to asking your dog to heel indoors – minimal distraction.
Now, what if I asked you to tell your spouse or child your ABCs? A little awkward, perhaps, but certainly manageable. This is akin to asking your dog to heel in your familiar backyard – slightly more distracting but still comfortable.
Finally, what if I put you on a stage in front of 10,000 people and demanded you sing your ABCs into a microphone? Most of us would be so overwhelmed that we might forget how to speak, let alone sing. This is comparable to asking your dog to walk politely in a highly distracting outdoor environment.
A bulldog straining and pulling forward on its leash
Imagine the stress if you were threatened with punishment for not performing your ABCs perfectly in that scenario! It’s simply unfair to punish your dog for struggling or becoming overwhelmed in a challenging situation that they haven’t been given time to adapt to. It is not effective, positive training to place your dog in an environment where they are too overwhelmed to learn, then attempt to control them with treats.
For positive reinforcement to work, you must create conditions where your dog can succeed. This provides frequent chances for praise and reward, helping them understand your expectations. They can absolutely learn to walk nicely in highly distracting environments, but this progression must be gradual. Start simple, build difficulty slowly, and allow your dog to solidify their skills at each stage.
Foundational Skills: 3 Commands to Teach Before Leash Training
A crucial warning: Do not skip these foundational skills and jump directly into loose leash training!
These commands are instrumental in helping your dog develop impulse control and learn the immense value of focusing on you. When you eventually transition to loose leash walking in more distracting environments, these skills will prove invaluable in maintaining your dog’s focus. A focused, engaged dog is significantly less likely to pull. Mastering these will save you a great deal of frustration and spare your arms.
Below, I’ve provided a brief explanation for each skill’s importance and encourage you to practice them for at least several days before initiating any formal loose leash walking training. Get your dog solid on these!
Sit
The “Sit” command is a fundamental obedience skill that every dog should know. It’s incredibly useful in loose leash training as a transitional cue (e.g., between heeling and loose leash walking) or as a brief “time-out” break in distracting settings. It helps establish a baseline of control and focus.
Focus
Every dog benefits immensely from learning the “Focus” command. Teaching your dog to check in with you regularly is a vital building block for more advanced obedience skills and significantly deepens your bond.
The “Focus” command teaches your dog that wonderful things happen when they direct their attention towards you. Consistent eye contact is paramount for clear communication between you and your dog. In highly distracting environments, a well-trained “Focus” command can help calm your dog, re-engage their attention, and bring them back to the present moment with you.
Leave It
“Leave It” is an indispensable skill for your dog’s safety and your peace of mind. While incredibly useful during distraction training, particularly for loose leash walking, it also has the potential to save your dog’s life.
Puppies and adult dogs are notoriously curious and will often try to ingest random items found on the ground. A solid “Leave It” command can prevent your dog from consuming something dangerous or toxic. This command allows you to communicate effectively to your dog to ignore or disengage from an object without needing physical intervention. “Leave It” essentially serves as a promise to your dog: if they choose not to grab or interact with the tempting item, you will reward them with something even better.
A well-behaved dog sitting calmly, demonstrating focus and good leash manners
Heel vs. Loose Leash Walking: Defining the Difference
One of the complexities in discussing “How To Teach Your Dog To Not Pull” is the varied interpretations of “loose leash walking.” In my methodology, I differentiate between two distinct ways of walking a dog: a perfect “heel” and a “loose leash” walk. I encourage and utilize both approaches.
Heeling
For me, “heeling” signifies that the dog walks precisely at your side, without falling behind or advancing beyond your knee. I personally teach dogs to walk on my left side.
My expectations and boundaries for a “heel” are considerably stricter than for loose leash walking. I expect the dog to be exactly at my left side, matching my pace. During a heel, I do not permit sniff breaks or greetings with other dogs or people.
If this sounds incredibly strict, you’re right – it is.
Teaching your dog to heel is an excellent method for establishing clear boundaries and expectations during the learning phase. Its very clear rules often allow dogs to grasp the concept quickly. While teaching your dog not to pull on leash, I recommend incorporating “heel” approximately 50% of the time. This communicates undeniable rules to your dog. Once a dog is fully trained, I suggest maintaining a strict heel for about 10% of the time or less. It’s an invaluable skill for navigating busy sidewalks, crowded areas, or other highly distracting environments where precise behavior is crucial. While too demanding for full-time use, it’s a valuable skill to learn and maintain.
The original article includes a video of a dog named Kiki demonstrating heeling after training. The video shows Kiki, who previously pulled intensely, walking perfectly at the owner’s side, illustrating the effectiveness of positive training methods.
However, I also strongly believe that walks should be enjoyable for your dog! As your dog becomes more proficient, you should gradually increase the amount of time they spend in a loose leash walk rather than a perfect heel. Loose leash walking grants them the freedom to sniff, explore, and simply be a dog! Remember, a walk should be as much for your dog’s enrichment as it is for yours.
Loose Leash Walking
Once a dog has been reliably trained to heel, I recommend transitioning to loose leash walking for the majority of your outings.
For walks, I suggest using a 6-foot leash. This length provides your dog with ample freedom to explore and sniff. Let them embrace their canine instincts! However, I strongly advise against retractable leashes due to safety concerns and their negative impact on leash training.
So, what exactly defines loose leash walking?
I define loose leash walking as my dog’s ability to move freely within the confines of a 6-foot leash. There should be absolutely no tension or pulling on the leash. Within this boundary, they are free to roam. If my dog wishes to stop and sniff something, and they do so politely without pulling, I will stop and allow it. Sniffing is a healthy and natural activity for dogs. However, if the sniffing becomes prolonged and I wish to continue our walk, I expect my dog to join me with just a verbal cue, without any leash tension from either of us.
The original article includes another video of Kiki demonstrating loose leash walking. In this video, the dog is allowed to sniff something of interest, then, without any leash tension, is prompted by a verbal cue to continue walking politely alongside the owner.
Essential Principles for Teaching Your Dog Not to Pull
Teaching your dog to heel or loose leash walk requires patience and consistency, but the rewards are immense. I regularly take my dog, Neirah, with me everywhere; she walks so beautifully that I rarely have to consciously manage her leash. The ability to relax and get lost in your thoughts during a walk is a truly wonderful experience that I sincerely wish for you – and I genuinely believe you can achieve it! I’ve assisted countless dog owners in teaching their dogs not to pull, and I can guide you too.
Every dog possesses the capacity to walk politely on a leash; they simply need the time and guidance to learn. Your goal is to build a strong association that positive things happen when your dog remains close and attentive to you during walks. We use treats to condition this association. Eventually, treats can be phased out (or significantly reduced), and your dog will continue to walk nicely. I rarely bring treats on walks with my dog anymore, yet she consistently chooses to check in with me. Whether you have an adult dog or need to train your puppy to stop pulling on leash, consistency is key.
Important Things to Know About Teaching Loose Leash Walking:
Progress Gradually: We will slowly increase the level of distraction. It may take a few weeks before you can take your dog on a “real walk” as opposed to a dedicated training walk. During this initial period, I recommend exercising your dog through alternative activities like fetch, dog parks, or backyard play. Ensure your dog is sufficiently exercised; otherwise, asking them to walk politely is unfair to them.
No Reward for Pulling: It is absolutely critical that from the very first day you commit to teaching your dog not to pull, the behavior of pulling ceases to be rewarded. This means pulling never results in something good for them. Remember, if they pull you to sniff something interesting, that scent is a reward for pulling. You must commit to completely stopping pulling rather than sporadically accepting it. If you occasionally give in when your dog pulls hard enough, it only teaches them to pull harder next time to get what they want. From day one of training onwards, pulling can never achieve your dog’s desired outcome. Dogs learn best with consistent training! Reinforce that good things happen with polite walking instead of pulling.
Start in a Low-Distraction Environment: It’s crucial to begin in a setting where your dog can be successful. You want ample opportunities to reward your dog for doing things right. I always recommend starting the first training session inside your home, where distractions are minimal.
Reward Lavishly: You are asking your dog to learn a difficult skill, so reward their efforts generously! If you feel like a “Pez dispenser” with treats while teaching your dog loose leash walking, you are doing it correctly! Ensure you have a good supply of high-value treats in your treat pouch for every session (I typically pre-break them into tiny pieces). Use treats to clearly communicate to your dog when they are doing a great job! You can prevent overfeeding by slightly decreasing the amount of food given at meals while they are in intensive training. While treats will eventually be phased out, ensure this happens gradually – do not reduce them too quickly!
A hand rewarding a dog with a treat during training
What You’ll Need:
- A comfortable, well-fitting harness (front-clip harnesses are often very effective for reducing pulling) or a flat collar.
- A standard 6-foot leash (avoid retractable leashes).
- High-value, small, soft treats that your dog absolutely loves.
- A treat pouch or pocket for easy access to rewards.
Step-by-Step Guide: Teaching Your Dog to Heel
Teaching your dog to heel establishes a clear, consistent expectation for walking politely at your side.
Get yourself ready: Begin with your dog sitting on your left side, on leash. Hold a small supply of treats in your left hand (to deliver rewards) and the leash in your right hand. Delivering treats with your left hand helps prevent your dog from learning to cut in front of you for a reward. The leash should always remain loose; your dog is learning to pace themselves, not being physically held in place by tension.
Choose a phrase for movement: Select a distinct verbal cue you will use to signal the start of movement. I use “Let’s go!”, but any consistent phrase will work.
Get your dog’s attention: Ask your dog to “Focus” on you, and immediately reward them with a treat when they make eye contact.
Begin: Say your chosen movement phrase (e.g., “Let’s go!”) and use the treat in your left hand as a lure, guiding it in front of your dog’s nose to keep them precisely at your side. Take 3 steps with your dog maintaining this position, then immediately reward them with a treat. Once your dog appears to understand this game, begin adding the verbal cue “Heel” as you start walking.
Practice: Dedicate consistent time to practicing these short sequences. Gradually work your way up to being able to take 10 steps in a perfect heel. Once your dog can reliably perform 10 steps a few times in a row indoors, they are likely ready to move the training outside to your yard.
Every time you increase the distraction level, you must take a step back in difficulty.
Move outside: Remember, your goal is to set your dog up for success! When you move the training outdoors, revert to luring for 3 steps before offering a treat. As this becomes easy for your dog, slowly increase the number of steps back to 10.
Phase out the lure: Once your dog can consistently maintain a 10-step heel in your yard without a constant lure, it’s time to stop holding the treat directly in front of their nose. Instead, reward your dog for sitting next to you, then say “Let’s go!” followed by “Heel.” Slowly try to increase the number of steps you can take with your dog in a perfect heel position. If you notice your dog’s focus wavering, try talking to them in an encouraging tone to regain their attention. You want to reward your dog for checking in with you, so offer a treat every time they make eye contact. Aim to eventually keep your dog in a heel for a full minute between treats.
Practice! If your dog is accustomed to pulling on the leash, you will likely need to spend several days practicing heeling in your yard. This is a new skill for them, and behavior change takes time and consistent effort.
I recommend keeping training sessions short (around 20 minutes, twice a day) to prevent both you and your dog from becoming overwhelmed or frustrated.
Troubleshooting Heeling Issues:
- Sniffing or Pulling Sideways: If your dog tries to sniff or pulls sideways while heeling, calmly say “Leave it” and apply the slightest amount of leash pressure (as you would have practiced during foundational leash pressure training) to gently guide them back to your side. Reward them immediately every time they return to your desired position. Crucially, remember that pulling never leads your dog to what they want.
- Pulling Ahead: If your dog attempts to pull in front of you, calmly say “Let’s go!” and immediately turn to walk in the opposite direction. Reward them with a treat when they re-orient and follow you in the new direction. This teaches your dog that they need to stay attentive and by your side because your direction might change at any moment, and following you leads to positive outcomes.
I suggest holding off on adding loose leash walking until your dog has thoroughly mastered maintaining a heel for one full minute in your yard. Learning two new skills simultaneously can be mentally taxing, so focus on solidifying heeling first. Between heeling sessions, incorporate sniff and play breaks to keep training fun and engaging. Mastering a loose leash walk ensures an enjoyable experience, making it easier to manage behaviors, perhaps even leading to advanced commands like training a dog to use a bell to go out.
Once your dog can easily heel for a minute in your yard, gradually advance to environments with increasing distractions. Start with a quiet street or path devoid of other dogs (the new smells alone will be distracting enough). Always remember: when you elevate the distraction level, reduce the difficulty of other aspects of the training. I typically suggest returning to rewarding your dog for every 10 steps in each new walking environment. Your dog will likely adapt more quickly with each new setting, so adjust the pace of progression to their individual learning speed. Once your dog can heel for a minute in a new environment, you’re ready to integrate loose leash walking instead of stationary sniff/play breaks.
Step-by-Step Guide: Transitioning to Loose Leash Walking
Once your dog has developed a strong understanding of the basic rules of heeling, it’s time to introduce and master loose leash walking!
To reiterate, I define loose leash walking as your dog’s freedom to explore anywhere within the natural boundaries of their leash. If I cannot easily hold the leash with just one finger without tension, it is not considered loose leash walking. There should be absolutely no tension on the leash.
If your dog wants to sniff during a loose leash walk, and they do so politely without pulling, stop and let them! While I maintain a strict no-pulling policy, loose leash walking otherwise provides your dog the freedom to truly be a dog. Walks should be enjoyable and enriching for your dog too.
How to Teach Your Dog to Loose Leash Walk:
- Start Position: Have your dog sit at your left side.
- Initiate Movement: Say your movement cue, “Let’s go!”, then immediately follow it with “Ok!” and point slightly in front of you, gesturing forward.
- Encourage Exploration: Your dog might initially hesitate, accustomed to heeling precisely at your side. Continue walking calmly, allowing your dog to gradually move away from your immediate side and explore.
- Polite Sniffing: If your dog stops to sniff something without pulling, allow them to do so!
- Re-engagement: If a sniff break lasts too long and you wish to continue, say your dog’s name followed by either “Let’s go!” or “Leave it” (if they are very engrossed in the sniff). Reward them with a treat when they disengage and start walking with you again without tension.
It’s valuable to practice seamlessly transitioning between heeling and loose leash walking. While your dog is learning, make these transitions easier by having them sit briefly between commands. “Let’s go” consistently signals movement, while “Heel” or “Ok” defines the boundaries of their walking position. Consistency in your verbal cues is incredibly important for clear communication with your dog.
Your dog will be enticed by more smells and freedom during loose leash walking, so keep in mind that it can be a difficult skill to learn.
Tips for Successful Loose Leash Walking:
- Maintain the No-Pulling Policy: You must steadfastly adhere to a no-pulling allowed policy. Be vigilant not to accidentally reinforce pulling by letting your dog drag you to an enticing smell. Dogs earn their freedom and sniffing privileges on walks by demonstrating polite leash manners.
- Encourage Check-Ins: You want your dog to instinctively want to check in with you and be aware of your location. You should notice them looking up at you more frequently, a positive outcome of practicing the “Focus” and heeling commands. Continue to reinforce this! Give your dog a treat every time they spontaneously look up at you without being cued.
- Read Body Language: Pay close attention to your dog’s body language while loose leash walking. Most dogs exhibit a subtle “tell” just before they start to pull. You might notice their eyes lock onto something, or their ears pivot in a specific direction. If you observe these pre-pulling cues, say “Let’s go!” and immediately turn and walk in the opposite direction before they even have a chance to pull you. Reward your dog for following you in the new direction! The most effective way to correct pulling is to prevent it from happening in the first place.
- Manage Distractions: If an unexpected distraction (like another dog or person) suddenly appears during training, try to create distance between it and your dog. This might involve crossing the road or simply turning to walk in a different direction. If your dog seems highly distracted and unable to focus, ask them to sit and practice some “Focus” work (rewarding every successful check-in with a treat). Sometimes, your dog simply needs a brief mental break.
- Handle Irresistible Smells: If you encounter a spot with a smell so overwhelmingly enticing that your dog can’t help but pull towards it, use your “Leave it” command and a treat to pivot and change directions. Then, turn back and try passing the spot again. If they still struggle and pull towards it a second time, instead place them in a “Heel” and use a treat to lure them calmly past. It’s perfectly fine to make adjustments, but never reward pulling by giving in.
- Gradual Progression: Slowly increase the duration of your loose leash walks and the level of distraction in the environments you choose. Remember, build up the skill slowly! You need to create ample opportunities to reward your dog for making the right choices. Achieving truly pleasant walks means understanding how to keep your dog from pulling on leash in various environments.
Enjoying Walks Together: A Rewarding Journey
Both you and your dog deserve to experience the joy of walks together. Undoing long-standing pulling behavior on the leash can take time and consistent effort, but the investment is profoundly worthwhile. Just imagine: in as little as one month, you could be confidently taking your dog for a walk, free from the constant strain and frustration of pulling! How truly amazing would that be?
The journey to a perfect loose leash walk is a testament to your patience, dedication, and the strength of your bond with your dog. By consistently applying positive reinforcement, understanding your dog’s motivations, and gradually introducing challenges, you will transform your walks from a chore into a cherished activity. Embrace the process, celebrate every small victory, and soon you’ll be enjoying the harmonious strolls you’ve always dreamed of.
Happy training!
