Teaching your dog to bark on command is a valuable skill, not just for deterring intruders but also for strengthening your bond and communication. Whether you have a dog with strong protective instincts or one that’s naturally reserved, this guide will walk you through effective methods to encourage your canine companion to vocalize when you need them to. We’ll explore techniques for dogs with varying temperaments, ensuring you can achieve success with your furry friend.
There’s a common misconception that only dogs trained for bite work are protective. However, for the vast majority of dog owners, a dog that barks to alert them to strangers or unusual sounds is more than sufficient for security. This type of alert barking is a crucial aspect of a dog’s role in the home, and learning to control it, rather than suppress it, is key. This article focuses on training techniques that are both effective and humane, ensuring your dog’s natural instincts are channeled positively. Mastering these methods can open up a world of other easy tricks to teach my dog.
Understanding Your Dog’s Drives
Before diving into the specific training techniques, it’s essential to understand a few fundamental concepts related to a dog’s natural drives, especially if you’re considering any form of protection training. While this article primarily focuses on teaching a dog to bark, a basic grasp of protective drives will help you understand your dog’s reactions and motivations better. Some dogs are genetically predisposed to possess strong defensive drives, making them more receptive to advanced protection training. Others may lack these instincts entirely. Our goal here is to work with what your dog naturally offers, whether it’s a strong protective instinct or a tendency to be more reserved.
Training Dogs Without Defensive Drive: The “Bark on Command” Method
For dogs that naturally have little to no defensive drive, the primary goal is to teach them to bark on cue. This is achieved by making barking a fun and rewarding game. The key is consistency in your commands and enthusiastic praise for any vocalization. Many owners find success using a specific word that sounds authoritative yet exciting. While English commands like “Speak” or “Bark” are common, some trainers prefer words like “GEBLOUT,” a German term that sounds more distinctive and can add an element of seriousness and fun.
The “Frustration and Reward” Technique
A highly effective method to initiate barking in dogs that are not natural barkers, or those whose barking has been discouraged, is to introduce a controlled element of frustration combined with a positive reward. This can be done in a familiar location, such as your kitchen or backyard.
Begin by teasing your dog with a treat or a favorite toy. Hold it just out of reach, perhaps near a table leg or fence, and move away. As you do this, use your chosen bark command. The crucial element here is to react instantly and enthusiastically to any sound your dog makes, even a whine or a soft grunt. Immediately offer praise like “GOOD GEBLOUT, GOOD GEBLOUT!” and give the reward. This positive reinforcement teaches your dog that vocalizing leads to good things. Puppies often pick up on this game quickly, though older dogs can certainly learn it with patience. The challenge, for some, is knowing when to stop, as an overly enthusiastic dog might bark excessively once they grasp the concept! This technique is also a great precursor to fun dog tricks to teach your dog.
Focusing on One Bark Initially
During the initial stages of training, it’s vital to reward only one bark. This helps your dog understand the specific cue. As they become more reliable and consistent, you can gradually increase the expectation to two or three barks. Consistency in rewarding that single, solicited bark is paramount.
Expanding the Bark Command to New Locations
Once your dog reliably barks on command in a specific training spot, it’s time to generalize this behavior. Move your training sessions to different areas of your house and yard. Practice giving the “GEBLOUT” command during play sessions, walks, or even casual moments. The goal is to have your dog bark on cue without necessarily seeing you hold a toy or treat. This demonstrates that they are responding to your command, not just the presence of a reward. This progress can be incredibly rewarding and build confidence, similar to teaching cool tricks to teach your dog easy.
Simulating Real-World Scenarios
The next progression involves simulating real-world scenarios. Have your dog inside the house while you step outside. Give the bark command and then ring the doorbell or knock on the door. When your dog barks, re-enter the house and reward them. Gradually, you want to reach a point where you can step outside without giving the command, knock or ring the bell, and have your dog bark. Remember to always knock or ring the bell before giving the command.
Involve other family members in this training. Have them step outside and knock while you remain inside to give the bark command. If your dog struggles, revert to a familiar training spot and have the family member play the reward game to build their confidence. Consistent praise throughout this process will make the game more enjoyable and accelerate learning. The ultimate goal is for your dog to associate barking at the door with positive outcomes like treats and play.
Managing Training Sessions
It’s crucial not to overdo any single training session. Aim for 3-4 barks and then stop, allowing your dog a break. Resume training after about 45 minutes. Excessive repetition can lead to boredom or fatigue, creating unnecessary challenges.
Incorporating Nighttime Training
Many dogs are more naturally alert and potentially anxious at night. Therefore, incorporating nighttime training sessions is beneficial. This helps your dog understand that barking at the door is appropriate even when it’s dark. This is not just a “day game”; consistency at all hours will make the behavior more reliable.
Advanced Training Goals
The final training objective is for your dog to bark without seeing you leave the house with the reward. Have a family member take the treat or toy to a nearby location. Upon their return, they should ring the bell. You then give the bark command, and your dog barks to receive the reward. Initially, expect just one bark. As your dog progresses, you can increase this to 3-4 barks. Some creativity may be needed to help your dog connect the dots, but with patience, they’ll understand. Remember, each training step is a new learning experience for your dog.
Training Dogs with the Genes for Bite Work
For dogs that possess the genetic predisposition for protection work, but whose owners do not wish to pursue full bite development, a slightly different approach can be taken. It’s important to note that not all breeds are suitable for this level of training, and American bloodlines, for instance, may have had the working ability bred out. Understanding the difference between working and show lines is crucial.
Leveraging Natural Suspicion
This type of training capitalizes on a dog’s natural suspicion. It’s most effective when a dog’s defensive drive is beginning to develop, which is influenced by both genetics and environment. The age at which a dog is ready for this can vary significantly, from around five months to two years old.
Setting Up Controlled Encounters
The exercise is often best conducted at night when dogs are more alert. Have a friend hide in bushes in a secluded area where you’ll be walking your dog. The “suspect” might wear a disguise like a ski mask for added effect. It’s wise to inform neighbors beforehand. Approach the hiding spot from downwind so your dog can catch the scent before seeing the person.
As you near the hiding spot (about 50-100 yards away), stop talking and observe your dog closely. The moment your dog shows any indication of smelling something unusual, act your part. Adopt a serious tone and ask, “WHAT IS THAT?” You can whisper this concern to your dog, signaling that something is different.
As soon as the hiding person is spotted by the dog, have them jump out, briefly look at the dog, and then run away. During this time, lavish your dog with praise. The initial goal is not to chase, but to increase their suspicion levels through repeated controlled encounters.
Introducing Auditory Cues
If your dog doesn’t react, the hiding person can use a noise maker, like a can with rocks, to create a sound at about 10 yards. Stop when you hear the rattle and give your dog the alert command. If there’s no growl or bark, the suspect can emerge, toss the can, and run. A prearranged signal with the suspect is helpful for immediate reaction. Even a soft growl from the dog should be a cue for the suspect to react. Eventually, you’ll expect a bark.
With dogs that are genetically suited and mature enough, they quickly learn that barking at a hidden person results in that person running away. The suspect should never approach or threaten the dog, as this is counterproductive.
Shifting the Element of Surprise
Once your dog reliably barks when alerted and can smell the suspect, change the setup. The suspect should hide upwind, so the dog cannot smell them until they are directly beside them. The handler stops about 10 yards away and gives the alert command. The person then steps out, stares at the dog, and runs away when the dog barks. This teaches the dog to trust your warning, even when their senses don’t immediately detect a threat.
There are numerous variations to this exercise. By using common sense and observing your dog’s reactions, you can refine the training. For instance, you can have someone walk towards you at night on a dark street. Give the alert command from a distance. The person stops, stares, appears to square off, and then runs at the first growl or bark. Be cautious not to overdo this, as you don’t want your dog to become overly reactive to every person encountered.
You can expand this to include scenarios where a person hides in your yard. Give the alert command from inside the house, then take your dog outside on leash. The suspect runs away, and your dog “wins” the encounter. This can progress to having someone pound loudly on the door after dark. Give the alert, and chase the suspect away. By creating noises away from the door, like by bedroom windows, your dog will learn that there are other appropriate times to bark.
It’s advisable to start these exercises in unfamiliar locations rather than at home. This raises your dog’s alert level and makes them more readily suspicious. For those interested in taking this further, bite development is the next logical step, and resources like “The First Steps of Bite Development” DVD are available.
Essential Companion Training: Obedience
Regardless of whether you’re teaching your dog to bark on command or engaging in more advanced protection training, strong obedience skills are non-negotiable. If your dog is ever involved in an incident where someone is bitten, a lawsuit could arise. In such a scenario, poor obedience training will reflect very negatively. Investing in resources like “Basic Dog Obedience” and “Intermediate Dog Obedience” will ensure your dog is well-behaved and that you have a solid foundation for any advanced training you undertake.
Conclusion
Teaching your dog to bark on command is a versatile skill that enhances their role as a guardian and companion. By understanding your dog’s temperament and utilizing consistent, positive reinforcement techniques, you can successfully train them to alert you when necessary. Whether you’re focusing on basic vocalization for deterrence or channeling a dog’s innate protective drives, patience, clear communication, and a strong foundation in obedience are paramount. For further guidance and to explore more advanced training options, consider consulting with professional trainers or utilizing reputable resources in the field.
