One of the greatest joys of sharing your life with a dog is taking them on walks. Yet, this simple pleasure can quickly turn into a frustrating tug-of-war if your dog pulls you down the street like a determined sled dog. If you dream of enjoyable strolls instead of feeling like you’re playing an unpleasant game of “Red light/Green light,” it’s time your dog learned essential loose leash walking skills.
It’s common for dog owners to struggle with this behavior; teaching a dog not to pull on the leash is one of the most challenging skills for them to grasp. Dogs aren’t born understanding polite leash manners, and being dragged around can be incredibly frustrating for you. As a dog training expert, I’ve guided countless dogs to master loose leash walking – even those that initially pulled with all their might! I assure you, with patience and the right approach, every dog can learn to be a pleasant walking companion. Even better, you can achieve this by teaching your dog not to pull using positive methods only. I firmly believe in humane training and do not advocate for choke chains, shock collars, or other aversive tools. If you wouldn’t use something on a toddler, it shouldn’t be used on your dog.
There’s a lot of misinformation suggesting that a dog pulls on the leash to show dominance or control. These ideas are entirely false. All pulling indicates is that your dog hasn’t been taught polite boundaries, and they are currently more focused on the fascinating environment around them than on you. This is perfectly normal! It’s our responsibility as owners to clearly teach our dogs what we expect from them during walks.
Unfortunately, these misconceptions have led many to believe their dogs are “being bad” when they pull, resulting in owners losing patience and resorting to punishment. I’ve witnessed trainers suggest punitive techniques ranging from mildly aversive to outright animal abuse. As a positive trainer, I oppose all such methods. I want you to know you can absolutely 100% get your dog to walk nicely and master loose leash walking using positive reinforcement training.
This article is intentionally comprehensive. Many articles offering “5 steps to make your dog stop pulling” often fall short, lacking the depth and practical advice truly needed for dog owners to succeed. This guide is designed to be everything you need to know about how to teach your dog not to pull on the leash. A pleasant walk is one of the best ways to bond with your dog, and I want every owner to experience that joy. I strongly recommend reading the entire article; every section builds upon the last to help you solve your dog’s pulling habits effectively.
Determined husky-like dogs enthusiastically pulling a sled, illustrating strong leash pulling behavior.
Why Does My Dog Pull on Leash?
Despite common belief, your dog pulling on the leash has nothing to do with dominance, control, or being disobedient. The real reasons are much simpler:
Not Enough Exercise
Most dogs don’t get enough exercise for their breed, leading to a surplus of pent-up energy. For many, their daily 30-minute walk is their only chance to exercise, which is often insufficient. It’s unrealistic to expect your dog to walk nicely beside you if they have an abundance of energy. To set yourself up for success, ensure your dog is sufficiently tired before beginning loose leash training. Try letting them run off-leash in a safe area, chase a ball, or visit a dog park. If you lack the time, consider hiring a dog walker or enrolling them in doggy daycare. Providing adequate exercise is a cornerstone of responsible dog ownership. Research your dog’s breed to ensure you’re meeting their specific needs before expecting them to perform specific tasks for you.
Humans Are Slow
Most dogs naturally walk faster than humans. Imagine taking a turtle for a walk – eventually, you’d get bored and want to move faster, right? To a dog, we are the turtles. Recognize that slowing their natural pace is difficult for dogs and requires significant effort and is quite unnatural for them. Can they learn? Absolutely.
Outside Smells Amazing
Let’s be honest: If you were with a friend and your phone buzzed, you might be tempted to check it, even if you know it’s impolite. Or, how difficult would it be to concentrate on work if your favorite TV show was playing nearby? Dogs experience an even more intense level of distraction from outside sights and smells during the “job” of walking politely.
On average, dogs have 50 times more scent receptors and 40 times more brain space dedicated to processing smells than humans do. We can barely comprehend it, but dogs can detect smells diluted to 1-2 parts per TRILLION. What might look like just a patch of grass to you is, to a dog, olfactory bliss.
Infographic highlighting key principles of positive training for loose leash walking to stop dogs from pulling.
This incredible sense of smell also means that sniffing can be a powerful reward for dogs. If your dog has been pulling you to investigate scents for months or years, understand that this pulling behavior has been reinforced (by getting to smell). It will take time and new rewards to change that ingrained behavior. For more guidance, explore resources on how to teach a dog to walk in a controlled manner.
How Do Dogs Learn?
If you wish to delve deeper into canine cognition and learning principles, various resources offer in-depth explanations. In basic terms, there are two primary approaches to train your dog:
- Reward desired behaviors: This involves reinforcing actions you want your dog to repeat, such as giving a treat for walking nicely or making eye contact.
- Punish undesired behaviors: This method uses aversive techniques to discourage actions you want to stop, like using a prong collar when the dog pulls.
As a positive reinforcement trainer, I believe it’s our responsibility to teach our dogs clearly what we expect from them. I strongly dislike training methods that rely on punishing a dog until they “guess” the desired behavior. Imagine if your parents or boss expected you to learn this way – how stressed would you be? It’s your duty to guide your dog effectively.
Punishment-based techniques focus on what not to do, while positive training teaches dogs what to do.
If you want to teach your dog not to pull on the leash, you’ll need to start in an environment where they can be successful. Why? Because you need opportunities to reward them for performing the desired behavior! For many dogs, this means beginning loose leash training inside the home, where distractions are minimal.
It can be challenging to understand how the training environment affects your dog’s ability to perform. Let’s use an analogy:
Do you know your ABCs? Of course! If I asked you to recite them in your head right now, you could easily do it. That’s the equivalent distraction level of asking your dog to heel indoors.
Now, what if I asked you to tell your spouse or child the ABCs? A little awkward, perhaps, but certainly manageable. That’s comparable to asking your dog to heel in your backyard – they’re comfortable, but there’s a slight increase in distractions.
Finally, what if I placed you on a stage in front of 10,000 people and asked you to sing your ABCs into a microphone? You’d likely be so overwhelmed you might forget how to speak. That’s the equivalent of asking your dog to walk nicely in a highly distracting environment without proper preparation.
How stressed would you feel if you were threatened with punishment for not saying your ABCs properly in that high-pressure scenario? That’s akin to punishing your dog for not being able to “perform” in a situation you haven’t given them time to adapt to. It’s unfair and an ineffective way to train. Do not punish your dog for having an emotional response or getting overwhelmed in a more difficult setting!
Similarly, it’s not effective positive training to put your dog in a situation where they’re too overwhelmed to learn and then try to control them solely with a treat. To effectively use positive reinforcement, you must start in an environment where your dog can succeed. This provides ample opportunities for praise and rewards, allowing them to learn your expectations.
You might know how to say the ABCs, but the context of where you’re asked to say them dramatically changes your chance of success. Dogs are no different. Build up the difficulty slowly and give your dog every opportunity to cement their skills. They can learn to walk nicely in highly distracting environments, but it won’t happen overnight. This step-by-step approach is crucial for dogs that struggle with pulling, as discussed in detail for dogs that pull when walking on leash.
3 Essential Skills to Teach Your Dog BEFORE Starting Loose Leash Walking
Illustration depicting a dog focusing on its owner, representing essential pre-training skills for loose leash walking.
A word of caution: Do not skip these foundational skills and jump directly into loose leash training! These three commands will significantly help your dog develop impulse control and learn the immense value of focusing on you. When you eventually begin loose leash walking in more distracting environments, these skills will be invaluable for keeping your dog engaged. (Hint: A focused, engaged dog is far less likely to pull!) Master these skills to save yourself frustration and sore arms.
I’ve provided a brief description of why each skill is necessary below. I recommend practicing these skills for at least a few days, getting your dog solid on them, BEFORE starting any loose leash walking training.
Sit
“Sit” is a fundamental obedience command that every dog should know. It’s incredibly useful when teaching your dog not to pull as a natural transition between heel commands or as a momentary “time-out” break in distracting settings. It helps your dog pause, re-engage, and accept a reward.
Focus
Every dog should learn the “focus” command. Teaching your dog to check in with you regularly is a critical building block for more advanced obedience skills and strengthens your overall bond. “Focus” teaches your dog that wonderful things happen when they look at you, fostering crucial eye contact for communication. In distracting environments, a well-trained “focus” can help calm your dog and re-center their attention on you, significantly reducing the urge to pull.
Leave It
“Leave it” is an indispensable skill. It’s immensely valuable during distraction training (like loose leash walking), but it can also literally save your dog’s life. Puppies and dogs are notorious for trying to gobble up random objects they find on the ground. A solid “leave it” command can prevent your dog from ingesting something dangerous. You want to be able to communicate to your dog to ignore something without needing to physically restrain them. “Leave it” essentially promises your dog that if they don’t grab or engage with the tempting object, you will reward them with something equally or even more amazing instead. This skill is vital for managing distractions when you are trying to teach your dog not to pull.
The Difference Between Heeling and Loose Leash Walking
The concept of “loose leash walking” can be defined differently by various trainers. In my approach, I distinguish between two distinct ways of walking a dog: a perfect heel and loose leash walking. I encourage and teach both methods!
Heeling
To me, heeling means the dog walks precisely at your side, without falling behind or advancing past your knee. I personally prefer dogs walking on my left side, and that’s what I teach.
My expectations and boundaries for a heel are significantly stricter than for loose leash walking. I want the dog to be exactly at my left side, matching my pace. During a heel, I do not permit sniff breaks or greetings with other dogs or people. If this sounds incredibly strict, you’re right – it is.
Teaching your dog to heel is an excellent way to establish clear boundaries and expectations during the learning phase. It has very explicit rules, which dogs often grasp quickly. While initially teaching your dog not to pull on the leash, I suggest practicing “heel” about 50% of the time. This clear communication of boundaries helps your dog understand what’s expected. Once a dog is fully trained, I recommend maintaining a strict heel for about 10% of the time or less. It’s an invaluable skill for navigating busy sidewalks, crowded areas, or other highly distracting settings where your dog needs to be perfectly controlled. However, it’s too rigid for full-time use, but a crucial skill to learn and maintain. You can read more about how to teach your dog to walk beside you for detailed guidance on heeling.
I also believe that walks should be enjoyable for the dog! As your dog becomes more trained, you should gradually increase the amount of time they spend walking with a loose leash rather than in a perfect heel. Loose leash walking provides them the freedom to sniff, explore, and simply be a dog! Remember: the walk should be as much for your dog’s enrichment as it is for yours.
Loose Leash Walking
Once a dog is reliably trained to heel, I suggest transitioning to loose leash walking for the majority of your walks.
I recommend using a 6-foot leash for walks. This length provides enough freedom for your dog to explore and sniff. Let them be a dog! However, I strongly advise against retractable leashes due to safety concerns and their hindrance to proper leash manners.
So, what exactly is loose leash walking?
I define loose leash walking as my dog’s ability to go anywhere they desire within the boundaries of the 6-foot leash. There should be absolutely no pressure or pulling on the leash, but otherwise, they are free to roam. If your dog wants to sniff something and does so politely (without pulling), I stop and allow them. Sniffing is a natural and healthy activity for dogs. However, if a sniff break lasts too long and I wish to continue walking, I expect my dog to join me with just a verbal cue and no leash tension. Neither you nor your dog should be pulling each other.
Positive Reinforcement Training for Pulling
Training your dog to heel or loose leash walk with positive reinforcement requires patience, but the rewards are immeasurable. Being able to take your dog everywhere, with them walking beautifully beside you, is a wonderful experience. You can relax, get lost in your thoughts, and truly enjoy your time together. I genuinely want that for you, and I firmly believe you can achieve it! I’ve helped countless dog owners successfully teach their dog not to pull, and I can help you too.
Every dog possesses the ability to walk politely on a leash; they simply need the time and consistent guidance to learn. Your goal is to build a strong association that amazing things happen to your dog when they are close to you and paying attention during walks. We achieve this through the strategic use of treats. Eventually, treats can be phased out (or at least dramatically reduced), and your dog will continue to walk nicely. I rarely carry treats on walks with my own dog anymore, yet she consistently chooses to check in with me.
Important Things to Know About Teaching Loose Leash Walking:
- Gradual Progression: We will slowly increase the level of distraction. It may take a few weeks before you can take your dog on a “real walk” instead of a dedicated training walk. During this initial period, I suggest exercising your dog with fetch, visits to dog parks, or backyard play sessions. Ensure your dog is sufficiently exercised; otherwise, asking them to walk nicely is unfair to them.
- Consistency is Key: It is crucial that from the very day you commit to teaching your dog not to pull, this behavior stops being rewarded. This means pulling should NEVER result in something good for them. Remember, if they pull you to sniff something, that scent is a reward for pulling. You must commit to completely stopping pulling rather than sporadically accepting it. If you give in when your dog pulls hard enough, it only teaches them to pull harder next time to get what they want. From day one of training onwards, pulling can never result in your dog getting what they desire. Dogs learn best with consistent training! Reinforce that good things happen when they walk politely, not when they pull.
- Start in a Low-Distraction Environment: It’s essential to begin in an environment where your dog can succeed. You want plenty of opportunities to reward your dog for doing things right. I always suggest starting the first session inside your home, where distractions are minimal.
- Reward Lavishly: You are asking your dog to learn a difficult skill, so reward their efforts generously! If you feel like a Pez dispenser with treats while teaching your dog not to pull, you’re doing it correctly! Make sure you have a good supply of high-value treats in your treat bag for every session (I typically pre-break them into tiny pieces). Use treats to clearly communicate to your dog when they’re doing a fantastic job! To avoid overfeeding, you can slightly decrease the amount of food given at meal times while they are in intensive training. The treats will eventually be phased out, but ensure this process isn’t rushed.
Image showing a variety of high-value dog treats, emphasizing the importance of rewards in teaching a dog not to pull.
What You’ll Need:
- A comfortable, well-fitting harness or flat collar (avoid harsh tools like choke or prong collars).
- A 6-foot leash (not retractable).
- High-value treats (small, soft, and irresistible).
- A treat pouch for easy access.
- Patience and a positive attitude!
Teaching Your Dog to Heel
Get Yourself Ready:
Start with your dog on a leash, in a sit position on your left side. Hold a small supply of treats in your left hand and the leash in your right hand. Remember to always give treats with your left hand, ensuring your dog doesn’t learn to cut in front of you for a reward. The leash should always remain loose! Your dog will be learning to pace themselves, rather than you holding them in place.
Choose a Phrase for Movement:
Decide on a clear, consistent phrase you will use to ask your dog to start moving. I personally use “Let’s go!”, but feel free to choose whatever phrase suits you best.
Get Your Dog’s Attention:
Ask your dog to focus on you, and immediately reward them with a treat when they make eye contact. This reinforces the importance of checking in with you.
Begin:
Say your chosen phrase, “Let’s go!”, and use the treat hand as a lure, holding it directly in front of your dog’s nose to keep them right at your side. Take 3 steps with them walking politely, and then reward them with a treat. Once you feel your dog is starting to understand this game, begin saying “Heel” as you initiate walking.
Practice:
Dedicate time to consistently practice this exercise. Gradually work your way up to being able to take 10 steps in a perfect heel. Once your dog can reliably perform 10 steps a few times in a row, they are likely ready to move your training session outside to your yard.
Remember: Every time you increase the distraction level, you need to take a step back in difficulty.
Move Outside:
When you move your training outdoors, remember that your goal is for your dog to be successful! Since you’ve introduced new distractions, go back to luring for 3 steps before offering a treat. As this becomes easy for your dog, slowly increase to 10 steps again.
Phase Out the Lure:
Once your dog has mastered 10 steps reliably in the yard, it’s time to stop luring them with treats held directly in front of their nose! Instead, reward your dog for sitting nicely beside you, then say “Let’s go!” followed by “Heel”. Slowly try to increase the number of steps you can take with your dog maintaining a perfect heel position. If you sense your dog losing focus, try talking to them to keep their attention. You want to reward your dog for checking in with you, so offer a treat every time they make eye contact. Aim to work up to being able to keep your dog in a heel for a full minute between treats.
Practice!
If your dog is accustomed to pulling you on the leash, you will likely need to spend several days practicing heeling in your yard. They are learning a brand new skill, and behavior change is hard and takes time.
I suggest keeping training sessions short, around 20 minutes twice a day, to prevent both you and your dog from becoming overwhelmed or frustrated.
If your dog tries to sniff or pulls sideways while they are heeling, say “Leave it” and use the slightest amount of leash pressure (as you would have practiced in initial leash pressure training) to gently guide them back to your side. Reward them every single time they return to your side. Remember, pulling no longer gets your dog what they want.
If your dog tries to pull in front of you, immediately say “Let’s go!” and turn to walk in the opposite direction. Reward them when they come with you! This helps your dog understand that they need to stay next to you and pay attention. Teach your dog that you might change direction at any second, and that wonderful things happen when they follow.
I do not recommend adding in loose leash walking until your dog has mastered a full minute of heeling reliably. Learning two distinct skills simultaneously can be more mentally taxing for your dog, so focus on one at a time for now. Take frequent sniff and play breaks between heeling sessions to keep the training fun and engaging.
Once your dog can easily heel for a minute in your yard, gradually increase the distraction levels of your walking environments. Begin with a quiet street or path without other dogs (the new smells will be distracting enough). Remember: when you increase the level of distraction, take a step back in other aspects of difficulty. I usually suggest reverting to rewarding your dog for every 10 steps in each new walking environment. Your dog will likely learn faster in each subsequent setting, so adjust the pace of increasing difficulty to match their progress. Once your dog can heel for a minute in various low-distraction environments, you’re ready to incorporate loose leash walking instead of stationary sniff/play breaks.
Teaching Your Dog to Loose Leash Walk
Once your dog has learned the basic rules of heeling, it’s time to introduce loose leash walking!
Again, I define loose leash walking as the dog being allowed to explore anywhere within the boundaries of their leash. If I cannot easily hold the leash with one finger, it doesn’t count as loose leash walking. There should be absolutely no leash tension! This freedom of movement is a key aspect of how to teach your dog not to pull while still allowing natural canine behaviors.
If your dog wants to sniff during a loose leash walk, stop and let them! I do not allow pulling, but otherwise, loose leash walking provides them the freedom to truly be a dog. Walks should be enjoyable for your dog too.
How to teach your dog to loose leash walk:
Have your dog sit at your left side and again say “Let’s go!” to initiate movement, then immediately follow it with “Ok!” and point in front of you. Your dog will likely hesitate a bit since they are accustomed to heeling. Keep walking and allow your dog to slowly move away from you within the leash length. If they stop to sniff something, let them! If the sniff break lasts too long for your desired pace, say their name followed by either “Let’s go” or “Leave it” and reward them with a treat when they start walking with you again.
It’s valuable to practice transitioning between heeling and loose leash walking. While your dog is learning, I make this transition easier by having them sit briefly between commands. “Let’s go” always signals to your dog that you want movement, while “Heel” or “Ok” communicates the boundaries of where they should walk. Consistency in your verbal cues is incredibly important for dogs, so ensure you use your words properly. You can integrate general impulse control training, such as “train dog to not jump on couch” or “how to get my dog to stop jumping on me”, into your overall routine to reinforce good manners in various situations.
Your dog will be enticed by more smells and freedom during loose leash walking, so keep in mind that it can be a difficult skill to learn.
A few tips:
- Maintain the No-Pulling Policy: You still need to maintain a strict no-pulling policy. Be careful not to accidentally reinforce pulling by letting your dog drag you to a desirable smell. Dogs earn their freedom on walks by being polite on the leash.
- Encourage Check-ins: You want your dog to want to check in with you and maintain awareness of your location. You should notice them looking up at you more often as a result of practicing “Focus” and heeling. Keep this going! Give your dog a treat every time they spontaneously look up at you without being cued.
- Read Body Language: Observe your dog’s body language carefully during loose leash walking. Most dogs have a “tell” just before they are about to pull. You can often see their eyes lock onto something or their ears point downwards. If you notice these cues, say “Let’s go!” and turn in the opposite direction before they even begin to pull you. Reward your dog generously for following you in the new direction! The most effective time to correct pulling is before it even happens.
- Manage Distractions: If a distraction unexpectedly appears during your training session, try to create distance between it and your dog. This might mean crossing the road if you see another dog, or turning to walk in the opposite direction. If your dog seems very overwhelmed or distracted, ask them to sit and practice some “Focus” work (rewarding every successful check-in with a treat). Sometimes, your dog just needs a short mental break!
- Troubleshooting Irresistible Smells: If you find a spot that smells so incredibly amazing that your dog can’t help but pull towards it, tell them to “Leave it” and use a treat to switch directions. Then, turn and try to approach it again! If they still can’t resist pulling towards it a second time, instead put them into a “Heel” position and use a treat to lure them past it. It’s perfectly okay to make mistakes during training, just ensure you never reward pulling by giving in to their tugs.
- Gradually Increase Difficulty: Slowly increase the duration and distraction levels of the environments where your dog is loose leash walking. Remember to build up the skill gradually! Always aim to create opportunities where you can reward your dog for making the right choices.
Both You & Your Dog Deserve Enjoyable Walks
It can take time and consistent effort to undo the ingrained behavior of pulling on the leash, but it is well worth the investment. Just imagine: in as little as one month, you could be confidently taking your dog on walks with no pulling! How truly amazing would that be?
Happy training!
