As a dog owner, you might be looking for ways to enhance your dog’s protective instincts, specifically their ability to bark and alert you to the presence of strangers or unusual activity. This guide focuses on teaching your dog to bark effectively without necessarily engaging in bite work, a skill that 99.9% of dog owners truly need for home security and peace of mind. We’ll explore methods suitable for various dog temperaments, ensuring your dog can become a reliable alarm system.
Before diving into the specifics of bark training, it’s beneficial to understand the fundamental concepts of protection training drives. Even a basic grasp of these drives can significantly aid your approach to teaching your dog to bark appropriately. Some dogs, due to their genetic makeup or inherent temperament, may never be suited for high-level protection training that involves bite work, as they might lack sufficient defensive drive. For these dogs, teaching them to bark on command is the most effective and safest route. Other dogs possess the genetic potential for bite work, but their owners may not wish to pursue such intensive training. This article will address both scenarios, providing tailored strategies to help you teach your dog how to get them to bark effectively.
For Dogs with Low or No Defensive Drive
Teaching a dog with limited defensive drive to bark on command for a reward (such as a treat or a favorite toy) is a straightforward process. The key elements for success are consistency in your chosen bark command word and immediate, enthusiastic praise upon the first sound or bark. I personally use the German word “GEBLOUT” as it’s less common and sounds more distinct than “SPEAK” or “BARK.”
It’s crucial to make this training a fun and engaging game. Your enthusiasm will motivate your dog. Don’t feel pressured to sound serious just because the ultimate goal is for them to bark protectively at the door. The initial hurdle is often getting your dog to understand what “bark” means. Once they grasp the concept, many dogs thoroughly enjoy the game, sometimes even a little too much! This can be particularly challenging if you’ve previously tried to suppress unwanted barking.
Initiating the Bark Command
One of the most effective ways to introduce the bark exercise is by incorporating a touch of frustration with the reward. To do this, tie your dog securely to a kitchen table leg or a sturdy fence post in your yard. Consistency in location is important during these early stages. Tease your dog with a treat, backing away gradually, even going out of sight if necessary, while continuously calling out to them. The most vital part is to react instantly to any vocalization, even a whine. Rush back, lavish them with praise like “GOOD GEBLOUT, GOOD GEBLOUT,” give the treat, and then start over. Puppies often pick this up quicker than older dogs, though once they learn, getting them to be quiet can be a new challenge.
Initially, aim for just one bark. For a significant period in training, rewarding a single bark is sufficient. As your dog gains experience and reliability, you can gradually increase your expectation to two or three barks, but that comes much later in the process.
Expanding the Training Environment
Once your dog consistently barks on command at the initial tie-out location, the next step is to generalize the behavior to different environments. Move the tie-out to various spots around your house and yard. Then, try giving the bark command during play sessions or walks. During these sessions, pause, make direct eye contact, and enthusiastically give the “GEBLOUT” command. If your dog hesitates, show them the treat and repeat the command. Remember, only one bark is needed at this stage. You’ll know you’re making progress when your dog barks during a play session without you needing to visibly prepare a reward.
The game can then be advanced to scenarios where your dog is inside the house, and you step outside while giving the bark command. While outside, ring the doorbell or knock on the door. When your dog barks, re-enter and engage in playtime. The ultimate goal for this step is for your dog to be tied inside, you step outside without giving the bark command, ring the doorbell or knock, and your dog barks on their own. Always ring or knock before giving the command.
Next, involve a family member or friend. Have them go outside to knock or ring the bell while you stay inside to give the bark commands. If your dog struggles, return to the familiar tie-out spot and have the family member practice the game. Always heap praise on your dog; the more praise they receive, the more enjoyable the game becomes, and the faster they learn. The objective of this phase is for your dog to connect barking at the door with receiving a reward (treat, toy, or play).
A brown dog with alert ears is shown through a partially open door, looking intently at something outside.
Optimizing Training Sessions
It’s crucial not to overdo the exercise in any single training session. Aim for 3 or 4 barks, then take a break. Let your dog do something else for 45 minutes, then repeat the session. Over-training can lead to your dog becoming tired or bored, creating new behavioral challenges.
Incorporate training at night as well. Many dogs with this temperament tend to be more nervous in the dark. Practicing the game at night will accustom them to barking at the door when it’s dark, which is often when you’ll most need them to alert you. This teaches them that barking isn’t just a “day game.”
The final goal in this sequence is to get your dog to bark without seeing the person leave the house with the reward. Arrange for a family member to take the toy or treat to a store. Upon their return, they should ring the bell, you give the bark command, and your dog barks and receives the treat. Again, initially, expect only one bark at the beginning of each new training step. As your dog gains experience, gradually expand this to 3 or 4 barks per alert. For the first attempt, the family member might need to crack the door slightly to allow your dog to see them and the treat. Remember, each step is new for your dog, so some creative thinking might be needed to help them understand the new association.
For Dogs with Protection Work Genes
Some dogs possess the genetic background for protection work but their owners either choose not to pursue it or lack the necessary skills for such specialized training. These dogs can be trained using a slightly different approach, leveraging their natural suspicion levels to encourage barking. It’s important to note that a dog’s readiness for this type of defensive training is influenced by their genetics and environment. While some 5-month-old puppies with sound temperaments might react positively, others may not be ready until they are 24 months old.
It’s crucial not to assume that just because you have a German Shepherd, Doberman, or Rottweiler, your dog will automatically excel in this method. Many American bloodline dogs have had their working ability bred out of them and may not be suitable for this defensive training. Understanding the differences between German and American bloodlines can provide valuable insight.
Enhancing Suspicion and Barking
This exercise is best conducted at night when dogs are naturally more alert. Have a friend hide in the bushes in an area where you plan to walk your dog. For added effect, your friend can wear a ski mask or scarf over their face. (It’s wise to notify your neighbors beforehand to avoid alarming them.) Choose a secluded location where you’re unlikely to encounter other people.
Approach your friend from the downwind side, ensuring the wind carries their scent towards you, allowing your dog to smell them before you get too close. Set up the walk so you cover several hundred yards before reaching the hiding spot. As you get within 50 to 100 yards of the spot, stop talking and pay close attention to your dog. Look for any subtle indication that your dog smells something unusual. The moment your dog shows the slightest hint of detection, act your part. Sound suspicious and ask, “WHAT IS THAT?” with a serious tone. Whisper your concern to your dog so they understand something is amiss.
As soon as your friend sees your dog, they should jump out, look at your dog for no more than one second, and then run away. While the person is running, shower your dog with enthusiastic praise. Initially, you don’t want your dog to chase the person; this marks the end of the exercise. Repeat this process multiple times to progressively increase your dog’s suspicion levels.
If your dog doesn’t react, the hidden person can use a can or milk jug filled with rocks. When you’re about 10 yards away, stop when you hear the can rattling. Give your dog a warning, “WHAT IS THAT?” and wait a few seconds. If there’s no growl or bark, the “suspect” steps out, tosses the can on the ground in front of your dog, and runs away. Always have a prearranged signal with your “suspect” to ensure they come out at the right moment. Sometimes, a dog might only growl softly. The suspect might not hear this, so we want them to react instantly to any vocalization, even a soft growl. Later, we will encourage a full bark.
If your dog is mature enough and possesses the correct genetic background, it won’t take long for them to realize that barking at a hidden person causes that person to jump and flee. At no point during this training should the suspect advance towards or threaten your dog, as this would be counterproductive to the training goals.
A Malinois or similar breed dog is shown in an alert, engaged stance, eyes focused forward.
Advanced Scenarios and Generalization
Once your dog becomes proficient at smelling the suspect and barking when you alert them, the training can be modified. The suspect now hides upwind of your dog (with the wind blowing from behind your dog), preventing your dog from smelling the hidden person until they are almost directly by them.
When you are about 10 yards from the suspect, stop and give an alert command. If set up correctly, your dog won’t have smelled the person. The person will step out, stop, stare at your dog, and when your dog barks, they will run away. This teaches your dog to trust and listen to your warnings. It instills the understanding that even if they can’t smell anything, if you say something is there, then there is something to be cautious of.
There are countless variations to this exercise. By using common sense and carefully observing your dog’s reactions, you can fine-tune the training. For example, you could have a person walk towards you at night on a dark street. Give the alert command at 15 yards. The person stops, stares, perhaps puffs themselves up slightly by squaring off at your dog, and then runs off at the first growl or bark.
A word of caution: don’t overuse this last variation, as your dog might start barking at every person you encounter at night. This could become problematic if you frequently walk your dog in urban areas.
You can expand the exercise to include having someone hide outside your house in your yard. Give the alert command from inside the house, then take your dog outside (always on a leash). The suspect runs off, and your dog “wins” another round. This can progress to having someone come to your door after dark and pound loudly. Give the alert (have the leash handy) and “chase” the suspect away. By having someone make noises from outside the house away from the door (e.g., near bedroom windows), your dog will learn that there are other appropriate times to bark.
It’s best not to start this work at your house. By conducting training in unfamiliar locations, even places you don’t normally walk, you can raise your dog’s alert level, making them quicker to become suspicious.
Importance of Obedience Training
If you embark on this alert training journey, it is absolutely essential to ensure your dog has an excellent foundation in obedience training. Should a situation ever arise where someone is bitten and a lawsuit ensues, it would reflect poorly if your dog lacked basic obedience. Mastering easiest commands to teach a dog and progressing to more complex ones is fundamental. A well-behaved dog is a safer and more manageable companion, especially when dealing with protective instincts. For those aiming to improve general behavior and control, resources on topics like how to stop dog from dragging me or how to get puppies used to a leash can be very helpful. Remember, a dog that barks on command is a great asset, but a dog that also listens to you is invaluable. You can also explore guides on how do i train my dog to go outside for comprehensive house-training techniques.
If this work sparks a deeper interest, you might consider taking your dog to the next level with bite development training. For this, specialized resources such as “The First Steps of Bite Development” DVDs or protection dog training DVDs would be relevant. However, if your only interest is in teaching your dog to bark for alerting purposes and not to bite, these advanced videos are unnecessary.
Ultimately, training your dog to bark on command or at suspicious events is a rewarding endeavor that enhances their role as a guardian and provides you with an added layer of security. Consistent, positive training, coupled with a strong obedience foundation, will help you foster a well-adjusted and alert canine companion.
