Resource guarding is a natural behavior in dogs, stemming from their wild ancestors’ need to protect valuable assets like food, mates, and territory for survival. While essential in the wild, this instinct can manifest undesirably in domestic pets, particularly when directed towards humans. Resource guarding can range from subtle actions like moving away with a prized possession or emitting a low growl when approached, to more serious aggressive behaviors such as biting or lunging to drive others away. Some dogs reserve this behavior for strangers, while others guard their resources from everyone. The items dogs choose to guard also vary widely, encompassing chew toys, bones, stolen items like socks or food wrappers, and most commonly, their food.
For many pet owners, managing food guarding doesn’t necessitate intensive treatment. Reasonable precautions, such as feeding dogs in a separate room, crate, or behind a barrier, and ensuring they receive ample food to reduce the motivation to guard, can be sufficient for safety. These owners also avoid forcibly taking away scavenged or stolen items. However, the presence of children in a home with a resource-guarding dog introduces significant risk. Children, often less adept at recognizing warning signals and prone to reckless behavior, are at a higher likelihood of being bitten. For some adults, the risks associated with a resource-guarding dog are also too substantial. This is especially true for dogs who guard food left on tables, counters, in dishwashers, or dropped on the floor, as these situations are impossible to avoid entirely, making prevention of the guarding behavior equally impossible.
An Ounce of Prevention
Young puppies often display guarding behaviors due to competition with littermates for limited food resources. Breeders who feed puppies from a communal bowl may inadvertently foster an environment where a few puppies monopolize the food, potentially leading to a firmly established pattern of aggressive behavior rewarded by early survival advantages.
For new puppy or adult dog owners without existing guarding issues, implementing simple preventative exercises is crucial. Upon bringing a new dog home, hand-feeding several meals is recommended. This involves sitting with the dog and offering kibble one bite at a time, while speaking in a pleasant tone and stroking the dog. If the dog shows any signs of discomfort or wariness, hand-feeding should cease, and the exercises outlined below should be consulted. If the dog remains calm, gradually transition to placing the food bowl in your lap, continuing the pleasant interaction. After a few meals, place the bowl on the floor and periodically drop a highly palatable treat, such as a small piece of cheese, chicken, or beef, into the bowl as the dog eats. Consistently practicing this for the initial months can help the dog remain relaxed and unthreatened by your presence during meal times.
Seeking Professional Help
If you suspect your dog might bite, it is strongly advised not to attempt resolving resource guarding independently, as this could lead to serious harm, especially for dogs with a history of biting. Consulting with a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or ACAAB), a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB), or a qualified Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT) with specific expertise in treating aggression is recommended. When seeking a CPDT, verify their education and experience in handling aggression, as this is not a mandatory certification requirement. Resources like the ASPCA’s article on Finding Professional Behavior Help can assist in locating qualified professionals.
For some dogs, addressing food guarding can be complex. If a dog shows signs of stress, refuses to eat, or continues to guard their bowl during treatment exercises, discontinue the exercises immediately and seek professional guidance. Persistent guarding despite initial progress also warrants professional intervention.
Treatment Exercises for Food Guarding
The primary methods for treating food guarding involve desensitization and counterconditioning, which are highly effective but require careful and detailed application. These exercises are performed in stages, progressing only when the dog remains relaxed and shows no signs of aggression. It is crucial to understand a dog’s body language to recognize signs of relaxation versus aggression. Relaxed signs include a loose posture, normal breathing, relaxed tail wags, and a normal eating pace. Conversely, signs of aggression include stiffness, gulping food, tension, freezing, growling, staring, snapping, snarling, biting, or chasing. If any aggressive signs are observed, cease the exercise immediately and consult a professional.
If there is any uncertainty about a dog’s reaction, tethering them to a sturdy object can provide a safety measure. Before starting any exercise, prepare numerous bite-sized, highly desirable treats that the dog rarely receives, such as small pieces of chicken, beef, hot dogs, or cheese. The goal is to associate the owner’s approach during meal times with the arrival of even better food, rather than a threat of food removal.
Stage One
Stand a few feet away from your dog while they eat dry kibble from a bowl. Without approaching, use a conversational tone like, “What have you got there?” and toss a special treat toward the bowl every few seconds until the dog finishes eating. Repeat this for 10 consecutive meals until the dog eats in a relaxed manner before proceeding to Stage Two. If the dog leaves the bowl to seek more treats, ignore them until they return to their bowl.
Stage Two
While the dog eats, use the same conversational phrase and take one step closer to the bowl before tossing a treat, then immediately step back. Gradually decrease the distance by one step each day until you are within two feet of the bowl. Continue this stage for 10 relaxed meals before moving on.
Stage Three
Approach the dog, use the phrase, and drop a special treat directly into the bowl before stepping away. Repeat this every few seconds until the dog finishes eating. Proceed to the next stage after 10 consecutive relaxed meals.
Stage Four
Approach the dog, use the phrase, and hold a special treat an inch or two from the bowl. Encourage the dog to take the treat from your hand before you turn and walk away. Each day, increase the proximity of your hand to the bowl until you can hold the treat directly next to it. Maintain this stage for 10 relaxed meals.
Stage Five
Approach the dog, use the phrase, and simultaneously touch the bowl with one hand while offering a special treat with the other. Continue this for 10 relaxed meals.
Stage Six
Approach the dog, use the phrase, and lift the bowl about six inches off the floor while dropping a treat into it. Immediately return the bowl to the floor. Gradually increase the height of the bowl lift with each repetition until you can raise it to waist height and stand upright. Subsequently, practice picking up the bowl, walking to a table or counter, adding a treat, and returning it to the dog.
Stage Seven: Making It Work for Everyone
All adult family members should individually complete stages one through six, ensuring the dog remains relaxed throughout. The dog must learn that these positive interactions apply to everyone. This gradual process helps the dog associate people approaching their food bowl with receiving superior treats, rather than fearing food removal.
Treatment Troubleshooting and Tips
If kibble is not a viable food option, ensure the hand-off treats are more desirable than the food in the bowl. If using a raw, homemade, or canned diet, complete the exercises with kibble first, then repeat with the preferred food, always ensuring hand-off treats are superior. For dogs who eat too quickly, consider using a commercially available slow-feeder bowl.
Managing Your Dog’s Behavior
Beyond treatment sessions, careful management is essential to prevent aggressive encounters. Keep others away from the dog during meals. If children are present, do not attempt these exercises with individuals under 18; seek professional help. For visitors, remove all food from the area or confine the dog to a separate part of the house. Be aware that dogs may guard food intended for humans, even if placed on elevated surfaces. Confinement is recommended when food is present with guests.
What NOT to Do
Never punish or intimidate a resource-guarding dog. Attempts to “dominate” the dog by force can be dangerous, ineffective, and may worsen the guarding behavior while damaging the human-animal bond. Changing the dog’s emotional response through desensitization and counterconditioning is a safer and more effective approach.
